10 December 2019

Toni Lamprecht (48) and his philosophical "Sisyphus" quest

Toni Lamprecht, one of the best climbers in the world since the mid 90'ies, tells us his story about his latest 8C FA and adding a possibly 8A+ extension. "Of course you can have the story about "Real Absurdistan". It is a part of the so called "Stoamatz-Project", which I am trying since more than 2 years. "Real Absurdistan" is the lowest start of the roof part. It is 17 moves long, moves that afford besides maximum span a lot of body tension and good coordination. I tried it at least 60 to 70 days. This spring 20-30 and another 15 sessions this autumn/winter. The full "Stoamatz-project" would ad another FB 8A+ traverse with very tricky moves on slopers that need good conditions. That would be a nerve reckin' extension, 33 moves in total. Sisyphus was a guy in the greek mythology. He spends his time rolling up a stone to the top of a mountain, but the stone never stayed there. It rolled down on the other side and he had to roll it up again ad again. The philosophical aspect of the Sisyphus tale is whether he was unhappy with the result (never reaching the goal, that the rock is staying on top) or he was just happy by rolling itself. I think we climber have a very Sisyphus-sense of doing what we love. It is kind of a strange fate to try a route over and over again and even if we reach the top we go on to the next route or boulder. Are we unhappy never climbing THE route or is it just being happy to try something? Absurdistan is total in that dilemma because I climbed a higher version in spring and could have stopped, but there was the lower start and now there still would be an extension and so on and on. AS long as I keep projecting I seem to be happy even if I never climb the route of my life. But maybe that's not even important. Not to Sisyphus nor to us climbers..." So how can you still be going for progress beeing 48-years-old? Not getting injured might be the main key. As long as you can do sessions with a high intensity for the muscles you can have progress. Maybe not a progress powerwise but in combination with the maturity. However, I definitly need longer rests and have less good days with 100 % of power. It takes much longer to progress. Stay healthy and happy is the secret. How have you been training lately? Usually 3-4 days per week or 2 days and one hard training boulder or board in between. bouldering 1-2 hours with only little breaks in between moves. In the board it is mainly hanging, 10 and 5 seconds break hanging again and again until I get sort of trashed. Reapeats by 20 times.
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