14 September 2015

Should IFSC pick up the Psicobloc format?

Ed Fowke from The Circuit Climbing Magazine reports from the Psiocobloc comp in Milano. - Going away from the first Psicocomp I have attended I’m left with the belief that there is a place for this format on the World stage. Growing it into a series will for sure bring the crowds and taking to public places like Milano will grow the profile of the event immensely! The best way to describe a competition like this is to say “just watch the highlights reel” which will be coming soon. The racing was fast and frenetic starting with some great match ups in the ladies field where any of the top 3 of Juliane Wurm, Mathilde Becerra and Claudia Ghisolfi looking capable of the win. Indeed Juliane won her semi against Claudia by nanoseconds before having to do it all again in the finals, just edging Mathilde in the closing metres. In the end it came down to some crazy races to split the field. Sean’s come from behind semi win over home favorite Stefano Ghisolfi was unbelievable, he seemed to fly through the last 2 metres snatching victory at the very top. Stefano went on to secure bronze in the event beating rising American star Nathaniel Coleman in another hard fought race which was impossible to split until the final moves. Then it was the big show, Jan versus Sean, Boulderer vs All-rounder, Tall vs Short, who would be the champion. In the end even running his best time of the weekend with a sizzling 35 second pass Sean couldn’t deny the Big German who threw down a simply ridiculous 32 second pass to seemingly levitate his way to victory!" 8a has for some years now kept saying that IFSC should take up this format and make a World Cup out of it and possibly also make it Olympic. Psicobloc could as a matter of a fact, make something of the kind of a mixture of Lead, Boulder and Speed format. What do you think?
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