Mecanique Elementaire 8B+ by Staša Gejo
Melissa Le Nevé did the first female ascent of it in 2017 but otherwise, besides Oriane Bertone, no other females have sent 8B+ in Font. In 2021, Gejo got the bronze in the World Championship.
Did you do any specific or replica training and what was the trick in the end for the send?
I didn't train specifically for it, just practiced the moves on the project. The trick was to get up on the right foot just before the swing. Also, maybe because I reminded myself to enjoy the story of the boulder, its moves and holds.
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Staša Gejo's sends her first 8B+ in Font
Staša Gejo sent Mécanique élémentaire (8B+) in Fontainebleau last November and now the mini-doc video is out. "After 3 sessions last week, and falling at the swing around 5 or 6 times, I did it with frozen fingers, pumped and exhausted. It was a battle to remember. I was incredibly happy though. I h…
Max Bertone, sibling to Oriane Bertone, has sent Mécanique élémentaire (8B+) in Fontainebleau. Previously he has sent ten 8B's and last summer he did his first two 9a's. Last year, Max won all the three IFSC Euro Youth events he participated in and in 2022 he was the Youth Lead World Champion. "Fir…
Euro Youth Cup - Soure
The second Euro Youth Boulder Cup took place last weekend in Soure in Portugal. The athletes report about a great competition with an almost perfect route setting. The new format is flash in the qualification and then in the finals, the Top-10 rotates on the four boulders. Only Sabina Van Essen won …
Staša Gejo's sends her first 8B+ in Font
Staša Gejo sent Mécanique élémentaire (8B+) in Fontainebleau last November and now the mini-doc video is out. "After 3 sessions last week, and falling at the swing around 5 or 6 times, I did it with frozen fingers, pumped and exhausted. It was a battle to remember. I was incredibly happy though. I h…
Max Bertone, sibling to Oriane Bertone, has sent Mécanique élémentaire (8B+) in Fontainebleau. Previously he has sent ten 8B's and last summer he did his first two 9a's. Last year, Max won all the three IFSC Euro Youth events he participated in and in 2022 he was the Youth Lead World Champion. "Fir…
Euro Youth Cup - Soure
The second Euro Youth Boulder Cup took place last weekend in Soure in Portugal. The athletes report about a great competition with an almost perfect route setting. The new format is flash in the qualification and then in the finals, the Top-10 rotates on the four boulders. Only Sabina Van Essen won …
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…