Luca Bertacco does Biologico (9a)
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying it in October after sending Elephant man (8b+) but due to an injured finger and also to mechanise [lockdown] the second part, I started trying the easier version Bibita Biologica (8c). This route has in common only the second part of Biologico so it skips the first crimpy boulder that was painful for my finger. After having sent Bibita Biologica I was feeling better so I started trying the original line, soon found myself falling at the end of the second boulder. Then some time passed because I was studying to graduate and also injured my leg while heel hooking on a boulder. In this last week, I went there three times and by adjusting a little my beta, after falling at the same move over and over again and also by falling at the very top where you are not supposed to fall, yesterday all went smooth. Everything was perfect so I was able to enjoy the climb to the chain!
How did you get into climbing?
I started climbing by the age of 9 at a gym named King Rock near my home. I have competed for many years but my main passion was always climbing outdoors. During this time I also started to love doing long multi pitches in the mountains like in Dolomiti and the last year also go bouldering outdoors. Thanks to a lot of friends at my gym I can keep my motivation very high so I can have days outdoors like this one. For some years I have been working as a trainer with the youth competition team of my gym so I can take a lot of motivation even from them, maybe also to come back in competition mode 😁
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