15 April 2024

Giuliano Cameroni FA’s Eye in the Sky (8C)

Giuliano Cameroni reports on Instagram thathe has done the FA of Eye in the Sky (8C) in Valle Bavona after projecting it for around ten sessions. "Super psyched on this one! One of my all time favorites for sure. Last year I started trying this bloc with @kimmarschner and @dave_graham_ after they hiked up the hill and found this higher sector. Since the beginning we realized that it was a great mix of power and technique where both foot precision and body tension were required. This year I focused more on it and after some work it finally came together!"

In total, Cameroni, has since 2014, done 26 boulders 8C or 8C+, out of which ten are FA's. The 26-year-old has also done two 9a FA's.

What does your daily climbing life look like and how do you train?
I go out most of the days, even if I’m resting. My main training (besides trying to send some projects) during winter is about visualizing some next level moves. Sometimes I try them but most of the time I simply try to understand what muscles I’m missing in my body in order to do these hard moves. This way I can practice almost every day because I don’t get much tired from such exercises.

This approach is great because I often feel fresh for what I’m actually trying to climb. I’ve been using this method for a couple of years and I definitely see the improvements, especially in the fingers. For what concerns the bigger muscles, last summer I started training on the moonboard and it felt great. Instead of swinging back and forth between rock and gym I prefer to focus on the gym for a few months in a row and then apply the new strength on the rock during the wintertime. Both vision and technique have improved a lot since I started exploring what’s physically possible for me.
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