5 November 2014

Bouldering + Running = Long endurance onsights

Anna Gatta is the perfect example of that you can perform excellent on long endurance onsights by skipping climbing endurance training and instead go bouldering and running. Three years ago, the 40+ year old onsighted Priapos 7c (b+) in Kalymnos and since than she increased her mountain running focus, including running 650 km over 16 days in Himalaya last year. We are talking running up and down in valleys up to 5 000 m altitude. Yesterday, Anna onsighted a 7b, 7b+ and the 38 m Laurent… y'a quelque'un 7c in Kalymnos. Her preparation has been just three weeks of bouldering in Bishop and prior to that she has mainly been bouldering indoors 1-2 times a week beside a lot of running. The last six months she has mainly bouldered like 1-2 times a week. The reason for why running sometimes can be the best preparation is that to do up to 1 h of very steep climbing with several no hands rests measure both your climbing skill but also your heart blood circulation capacity. If you not easily can run 10 km below 50 minutes, it does not matter how super strong you are. More info and pictures from Himalaya and here is a greatvideo from the adventure. The picture is from Patagonia earlier this year. "Sure I am 40+ but I feel in better shape than ever and very motivated to start climbing again."
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