29 October 2022

5 Uve 8c flash by Alex Ventajas

Alex Ventajas, who previously has done a handful 9a’s, has flashed 5 Uve (8c) in Narango. The Spaniard has been waiting for the perfect moment for a year, checking others working it, and after he watched a video of it he finally went for it.

Could you say something about the flash?
When I started climbing I wasn’t really thinking about anything, my mind was kind of blank and my body was flowing, one hold after another. All the way up I had the feeling I already knew the moves, such as when you are projecting a route and you have already metabolized the sequences.

The final crux was my only doubt because that day the weather was pretty humid and I didn’t know which of the two betas I saw would have been better. My head was working pretty fast and, at first, I decided to try catching a sloper hold but I understood I might fall because it was kind of slippery, so I rapidly changed beta bumping to catch a crimp. Everything happened so fast in that section, I found inside myself a huge motivation, a fresh energy that let me keep going without hesitation through those crimpy holds.

When I reached the good one I took a breath, reset my mind and kept climbing carefully till the top!
0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related
Biologico 9a by Alex Ventajas

Alex Ventajas has done Biologico (9a) in Narango. "Incredible moves in an incredible place. Six days of projecting." (c) Andrea Ferrari"This route caught my att…

Hades 9a by Alex Ventajas

Alex Ventajas has done in Nassereith after projecting it for five days. "I’m really happy about the work I made to send this stunning line. Differently from ot…

 Trofeo dell'Adriatico 9a+ by Alex Ventajas

Alex Ventajas has repeated Gabri Moroni's Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) in Arco. The Spaniard, living in Italy, has during the last two years done eight 9a's and …