19 May 2010

Access Yangshuo

The access situation in Yangshuo has been a hot topic for a while. As many have probably heard the  situation in Yangshuo is delicate and complicated. This article will try to clarify the current situation for anyone planning to visit Yangshuo. It is not complete and thus any additional info (or corrections) would be gladly taken as comments to this.

Climbing is Yangshuo is spread out to several areas (while all of the places are quite close to the actual city).

Access issues in Yangshuo can thus relate to only certain wall or certain area. What it all comes down to is basically money, there is no arguing this. However, money is not a solution to the problem (as it hardly ever is). There is talk (and action) in the direction of creating a local association that would deal with these and other issues. So consider giving them a small donation on your next visit. The money will not even nearly cover the money spend on bolting new lines and rebolting old ones.

Driving out of the city of Yangshuo, you will see some toll booth looking buildings being built on the roads. Sure enough, that's what they are going to be there for. In (hopefully as far as possible) future, these booths will take money from anyone not showing a local id card. What the prices for Chinese or Western visitors are I have no idea of but the grapevine talks of 80 Yuan (roughly 8 euros) for westerners. This would totally kill any future climbing in Yangshuo except for beginners wanting to try the sport.

Probably the best known wall in Yangshuo is White Mountain. This spectacular looking wall rising from fruity green fields as you walk in is Yangshuo's best in both, qualitative and quantitative terms. The ownership of the White Mountain is divided between two villages. As the crag has seen more and more activity, the locals have started to ask people money for climbing there (people in China ask you money for basically anything, like say, asking where the post office is). Some have mistakenly paid them and this has started the trouble. This of course outraged the villagers of the other village and now they want money as well.

As the situation now stands, people should NOT give any money to anyone for climbing in White Mountain. If the locals however come selling fruits or something like that for a reasonable price, then it would be a good thing to buy some. Locals have tried to keep the climbers out from the wall by chopping 2 bolts off from basically every climb in White Mountain. Thus please do stick clip the line you area going for as there are at least two known accidents already.

The arch you see in every Yangshuo related picture gallery (or remember how Mikael Fuselier made a backflip from in Dosage 5) is called Moon Hill. It is a tourist attraction that sits in a park of it's own. As usual with Chinese parks, anyone going in has to pay a fee. As always, there are ways to get in for free as well. You should however never pay anything more than the park fee (i.e. pay extra for climbing). The ticket booth says that climbing is not allowed in Moon Hill and some climbers have been turned back at the ticket booth. However, once you get to the arch there is no one that would care if you climb or not. As a sidenote, bring your own drinks so that one day the annoying old ladies would stop harassing climbers by trying to sell drinks while you're climbing!

Wine Bottle doesn't say much to anyone who hasn't been to Yangshuo (the crag I mean). It doesn't say much to many of those who've been to Yangshuo either, as the place is on the moment closed from climbing (unless you are willing to pay ridiculous amount of money). A less known crag called White Cliff has also seen local people asking for climbers to leave.

Rest of the climbing places seem to be open for climbing on the moment. That doesn't mean that situation couldn't get bad in them either so be polite, don't make excessive noise and take out all of your own trash (at least). There is a warm and welcoming climbing community in Yangshuo so don't hesitate to drop by at Lizard Lounge and ask a question or two if you are unsure of something.

5 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Favorites