3 March 2010

Therese Johansen

Therese Johansen (19) from Norway did two 8A's the last
week in Chironico.
Le Pilier, 8A - Chironico
In 2009, she was #13 in the Boulder WC.

When did you start climbing?
I started when I was 10 or 11 but it was not until I was 13 I began training frequently.

How do you train?
I have tried some different methods but it does not suit me to follow a programme. I did some physical weight training until May last year but after having had a long summer break I found out that it worked just as fine without it. However, once in a while I train my abdomen/back and some drilling on a campus board. 

This autumn and winter I have mainly been doing very steep and roof bouldering. The boulders are pretty long since the roof is big :-) I general, I train two days on and one day off but it all depends on how I feel. 

What is your goal? Any future plans?
I have no specific goals but I want to be as good as possible. I want to notice progression on stuff that suites me but also on my weak points. I guess I will come back to Switzerland in May. I am really excited to boulder a lot and explore different boulders in different parts of Norway. World Cups this year is not likely as I want to focus outdoors. But I also have to work so I can save for as many and as long trips during the autumn.

What is the best thing with your climbing life?
To be outdoors and boulder, be totally psyched among totally psyched guys.

How do you choose the hard boulders and how do you work them?
It depends. Many of the boulders I have tried or will try is recommendations from friends or classics. Sometimes it is a bit random, like Pilier. It wasn't so many dry boulders this day. And Alphane Moon as well, because almost everything was wet. But i think I would have tried both boulders sooner or later anyway. I choose hard problems after what I like, it is so much to choose of.

I work them probably like everyone else, trying the moves, linking them together. I think it is important to have breaks from problems. Last autumn I spent way to much time on one boulder, it helped to have some days doing easier problems or trying other hard boulders. I will start working on some problems soon, and then I will combine working problems and have days with boulders I can do in one day.

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