WoGü. “You definately should try it!“ Beat Kammerlander told me in Voralpsee a year ago just a few days before my ascent of Silbergeier (200m, 8b+). That year I had too big respect from this route and also the weather was not good. So this July, I felt in shape, first one tired-making day in Fridriechshafen and on sunday we are up in Rätikon. Weather is desperate – raining, but next days should be much better. We arranged with my friend and very good climber Pietro dal Pra, who should belay me. Pietro arrived late at night.
In morning it was not raining, but terrible fog did not create ideal climbing conditions. Despite the fog we decided to go at half past nine at base of the wall – at least to have a look. When we reached there, we could see the Sun and thw fog was more or less gone. Great! The route starts aproximately 1/3 of the wall. Here you could see the line through old fix rope. Of course quality of this over 10 years old rope does not allow jumaring, so you have to climb. Lower half of the rope is on the left of the first pitch (6c) of Unendliche Geschichte (8b+, redpointed by Beat in 1991). The upper part of the rope has the same direction as second pitch (6c) of Unendliche Gechichte. From the second belay of UE you traverse 10 meters to the right and you are there. In place, where fun can start.
It is not essential to describe my activity in another hours. Searching holds, chalking them and occasionaly “enjoying“ of runouts. In late afternoon we got to the end 5th pitch and because of late time of day we rather decided to descent.
Another day (tuesday) it was obligatory restday. But it was again whole day raining! On wednesday the rain gave up, but the wall was wet. On thursday (finally sunny) Pietro had to go to Milan to make some slideshow, therefore my dad had to belay me, which he did not like for sure. Fortunately route is very steep so jumaring is not so difficult. I tried remember all holds and footfolds precisely. Precisely is very important, every small mistake in foot holds can mean a fall. I tried also 6th pitch 8a+, which I managed to on-sight (the only pitch I managed onsight, even in second pitch I fell first day during on-sight), and the start of 7th pitch 7c+, upper parts of that pitch should have been easy...
On friday restday was beautiful sunny weather, but according to the forecast on saturday, it should start raining in the afternoon... So we could not lack too much time with long sleeping.
Saturday morning, after 6 AM we are with Pietro leaving the parking. We could not start earlier, because the wall is wet very early. We quickly climbed first meters of wet rock and we are on the start of Wogü aproximately after 8 AM.
1.pitch – 8c, 35m, painful and technical climbing with wet section 5 meter under anchor, after this you can rest and dry your hands for last three moves – aproximately 7B+ or 7C boulderproblem.
The first of two big problems of the day. I climbed very nervously and long hesitated in wet section with pushing up my left foot . Then I fell immeditely I grabbed the resting jug because my right foot slipped. The second attemp was much better. I did not hesitate in wet section, very well mentally focused I dried hands in jug go on to crux. Crimp like side-pull, very bad intermediate and small dyno to good hold. But fall is coming. NO!!! Whole situation is not very positive. 9:20 AM, weird clouds on the sky and I still had not done even the first pitch. The third attemp I could not let a failure. I am again in that crimp and intermediate, and dyno. YESS. I've got it! We both with Pietro feel big relief.
2.pitch – 7c+ (according to Beat 7c), 15m, boulderproblem at start then delicate climbing in slight slabby terrain.
Without problem on first attemp. Mentally very strong after strong success in first pitch.
3.pitch – 8b+/c (according to Beat 8b+), 12m, Slightly slabby wall with extremely small and painfull holds.
Crux number two. In first attemp I fell just after a few moves. In second attemp I fell in half of the pitch when my foot slipped. Third attemp. I felt so good from the start. But when I reached the place where I fell before, my security had gone. Good side-pull with left hand, very bad intermediate right hand and push up left foot on what I hold with thumb of left hand. I pulled the left foot two centimeters below the aim. 5 never ending seconds I was there and tried to push up it 2 cm higher. My balance was slowly disappearing. Pietro's “come on“ awoke me to push up even more and foot was there. Now just not make mistake. And belay is finally at me. Ouch! Those holds are so painful.
4.pitch – 8b, 20m, twobolders with restpoint between.
Because my skin was alread in bad state, I decided to with tape. Not good choice! In second boulder I fell because tape went down. Second attemp already without tape was OK.
5.pitch – 8b+ (according to Beat 8c), 35m, travers on slopers (crux), no hand, boulderproblem, 10m of easy 6b, boulderproblem, 10m of 6a. The only poweful pitch (or at least the crux)
After break on ledge below this pitch at first attemp I broke hold after first move. Then I smashed it.
6.pitch – 8a+, 20m, easy climbing with difficult technical traverse just before the anchor.
Though I on-sighted it two days before, It was not wander. I got stuck in middle of crux, because I was in wrong foothold, so I had to use the same beta as during on-sight. That was not easy, because after 5 pitches not much power reamained. At the anchor huge relief. Now just last pitch.
7.pitch – 7c+, 40m, boulderproblem at start, 7a afterwards.
Despite the inreasing pain of my skin I did the crux quite easily and in euphoria I am climbing up. However last meters were quite seroius. Doing some 6c moves 10meters above last bolt... I did not even feel my “burning“ fingers right in last meters, beacuse I knew that in while I will be there! There on the top, sitting in green grass... In while Pietro is at me maybe even happier than me...
Thank's to Pietro and big greetings to Beat!
PS: For those who do not what WoGü means. It is so simple: Wolfgang Güllich. He would have been proud of it.
Blog by: Adam Ondra