19 May 2008

The Everest boulder circuit

The Everest boulder circuit: 15 + days, >8A and >5 400m


Lukla (2804m) to Namche Bazaar (3445m)
Mount Everest Base Camp (EBC) - up to the right
Bouldering at Kala Pattar - 5 400m

Take the path to Jiri through fields of rice and potato, parallel to the airport landing strip. A nice 10 minute walk will deposit you in a great little playground of granite blocks. Many problems to 7A+. There are numerous opportunities for adventure further along the trail. Chaurikarkar has many huge granite blocks, some with problems to 7B. Check out the Haas! Boulder on the trail below the school - but consider the apex that overhangs a big drop-off. Needless to say it has not been topped-out.

Namche Bazaar (3445m) to Khumjung(3790m)

A veritable goldmine of boulders lie between these two villages. One could spend months in this area alone. A good base of operations is Syangboche(3833m), where the world's highest airstrip is located. Head up from Namche west to the ridge top passing though an amazing area covered in small and large Buddhist stupas, cairns and carved artifacts. At the top of the ridge is the Sunshine Lodge, behind this are many exciting problems to V6. As one heads upslope to Syangboche, the rocks increase in size and commitment. The short path from Syangboche to Khunde(4000m) holds another great area. The granite here tends to be very featured and dirty, but also very steep and worthwhile. Several caves in the area offer problems to 7B in full view of Ama Dablam. The boulderfields around Khumjung are ripe for the pickings with only a handful of climbs to 6C+.


Dole(4084m) to Gokyo(4747m)
The path gets a bit wacky from Khumjung to Dole. The best term to describe this trail is "Nepali Flat". In other words, up and down then up again. The potential is slim on this leg of the trip - best to buckle down and hike. Inspired individuals can drop down to the river by Phortse for some high adventure on some of the bigger stones, but this area is best left unless the Chola Pass to Lobuche is out of shape and backtracking is required. Above Dole the path levels to Machermo(4465m), the next stop to rest. There are many small stones above and below the trail with problems to 7A. At Machermo lies several rocks, the most significant being the rock beside the river bridge. Good sloper fun to 7C. The boulderfields from Machermo to Gokyo lie close to the river. It is here the white polished granite will keep one busy for days. Many problems near the water and by the trail to 7A+. Above this valley the path leads through alpine meadows and treats visitors to great views of Cho Oyo, another 8000m peak. There are climbs on this plateau near the trail to 7A on cleaner granite blocks. From here travelers have two options: to cross the Chola Pass(5297m) in a very long day or descend past Dole to Phortse then up towards Lobuche and Everest Base Camp.


Lobuje (4929) to Everest Base Camp(5320)

The fun begins above Lobuche along the path with problems to 7A before Gorek Shep(5170m). Many rocks here have seen action from incoming Everest climbers, but still have scruffy sections. The closer one gets to EBC, the cleaner the rocks get. Problems new and old up to 7A. These good stones thin out about 30 minutes before reaching EBC as this high-altitude zoo rests on top of the glacier itself. Most people return to Gorek Shep, the original EBC, enlightened and spend a morning on Kala Patar before descending back to Lobuche. You'll be happy to know there are boulders on Kala Patar , about 50 metres vertical down from its' "summit". Problems to 7A at around 5400m. Can you say "Oxygen Deprivation"?


Pheriche (4243m)to Dingboche(4400m)

Between Pheriche and Dingboche lies an astounding concentration of rocks both big and small. Many of the 50 footers have caved-out sides that will yield potential problems up to 8A. The best place to stay to exploit these rocks is Dingboche. Merely walk up the hill past the big Stupa and down into this shallow valley of wonders. Problems to 7B. Great views of Lhotse, Katenga, Ama Dablam and Tawoche can be found here. Good luck!
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