20 January 2016

Guigui makes the FA of Pied à Coulisse 8C+ in Font

Guillaume Glairont Mondet reports on his blog that he completed his long time project in Fontainebleau, "Le Pied à Coulisse", grading it an 8C+. Previously Guigui has done five 8C's in Font. How many sessions did you need to do "Le Pied à Coulisse"? It took me around 25 sessions over 3 years, 12 between October and January. Is it your style? I would say yes, even if there's a little bit of everything in it : heelhooks, toes, mantle, with both tension and a dynamic move. How do you split your time between comps and projecting? I take advantages when conditions are good to work maximum intensity outside. for this one, I could only manage 3 tries before been wrecked for a day. It's pretty complementary to my indoor training regime. You explain a lot about the grade in your blog post, but how did you came up with 8C+? For me, it was very tough to break down the climb. My friend Nico would say 8B into an 8B, I would say more 8A+ into 8B+, but anyway it doesn't make sense to me. I know for sure that there aren't a move below 7A, and some feel close to 8A in themselves. And there are 14 of them. If I try to compare with other problem in Font, as I said, it was clearly harder for me. If I compare it to the other 8C's I've tried on my recent trips, I come to this conclusion: Individual moves are nowhere as hard as Lucid Dreaming, but there are only two in that one. The Story of Two Worlds have more moves, but it climb faster and the moves are easier on this one. I tried also Insanity of Grandeur during a session, and it felt easier too. My trip in Swizzy was rather short, and it was vacation, but I could get a feeling of those. Pied à Coulisse took me way more efforts, it is my style, and I needed a rather special day to do it. It's continuous, strenght oriented, and has low percentage moves from the mantle till the end of the heady slab. That's why I chose this grade.
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