1 October 2015

Combined in the Olympics is dead wrong - DWS is better

Sean McColl is one of the very best competition climbers in the world and also the only male who sometimes competes in Speed. However, as the best run up is the 15 meter high 6b in around six seconds and McColl usually covers it in 8 - 9 seconds, i.e. he is 33 - 50% slower, he finishes among the last. IFSC has suggested that the Olympic format will be based only on the Combined results of Lead, Bouldering and Speed. The Speed world record of the is 5.60 by Danyil Boldyrev. This is very impressive and these guys have been training specifically for several years. To have Adam Ondra competing next to Danyil would be embarassing for everyone involved. I mean it is like forcing the world's best 3 000 meter runner to compete against Usain Bolt in 100 meters. For me the best "combined" format is to select DWS as the Olympic format as this tests the Lead, Bouldering and Speed skills in a fun and understandable way. If "combined" Climbing makes it into the Olympics in 2020, IFSC has to change the WC format in 2019. Imagine how big impact this will also have at the national and youth level. How many of the best athletes are willing to skip maybe 20% of their power and endurance training and just start running on a 6b route instead? I mean, this speed focus will also have a negative impact on their rock climbing performances, beside it being dead boring to train for.
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