14 August 2015

Esclatamasters 9a by Mar Álvarez

Loyal to her tradition of displaying all her potential when most of us just think "It's too hot!" —her hands and fingers are not well supplied with blood so she avoids to climb when it's cold—, Mar Álvarez has done it again in the midsummer heat by ticking-off her second 9a, Esclatamasters in Perles (Catalonia - Spain). Watch her sending the route in this video or for a more detailed look in this other clip with Ramonet on it. Pic© Jon Herranz/Namuss Films. This is what Mar comments in her scorecard: "After a hold broke in the harder section of the vertical part, I think it can be left as a solid 9a. Regardless of the grade, it's a nice and demanding line which has made me experiment my limits. Thanks David for your patience, support and comprehension. And, also thanks to the sensei Pedro Bergua for helping me out and motivating me with his training regimes." Her references to the grade may have to do with the fact that Magnus Midtbø and Florence Pinet thought it was more like an 8c+. However, the above said hold broke and the fact that 7 out of the 8 climbers who have registered this route in our database —most of them with enough grounding to know what they're talking about— have done it as a 9a, seem to denote it's a grading which is quite settled down. Appreciate Mar's progression, who last year sent her first 9a - 'Era Vella' in Margalef and bagged her first and only 8c+ so far, 'Mind Control' in Oliana, the summer before. In the social media the catalonian climber commented: "... another dream came true. Nice looking and demanding line which made me experiment my limits (even though my finger hasn't been able to hold the pressure, crimping is over for a while!). It's been a hard but rewarding process." An interview with her will be published soon in the Spanish site. //Ignacio Sandoval Burón.
13 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related
Spanish girls cranking hard during this Summer

After 3 Summers trying it, suffering not-so-good conditions, abandoning it for big walls abroad and, more recently, having to fight against herself, by the begi…

Era Vella 9a by Mar Álvarez

Mar Álvarez gives us her great story of being the fifth female having done 9a by Era Vella in Margalef. In total it took the firefighter some 30 days. The stor…

Two 8b+ by Mar Álvarez

Mar Álvarez has done her two first 8b+, Tripa de Conejo and Ixeia (see picture) in Rodellar. Check her nice Gallery. If you're able to read in Spanish or want …