14 July 2015

IFSC rule 6.9.2 is confusing

In the IFSC rule handbook, the 6.9.2 regulates how to get the "Top" score, "An attempt on a route shall be considered successful if the route has been climbed in accordance with these rules and if the rope has been clipped into the karabiner on the final quickdraw of the route. This could be considered confusing as the word "climbed" normally means that you have reached the top of a route and the last hold is always marked "Top", as can be seen on the picture. However, the IFSC understanding of the rule is that you do not need to go to the top hold of the route to get the "Top" score. You just need to clip the final quick draw which in practice could possibly mean that the female could have skipped the last two holds in Chamonix. What happend in Chamonix was that Mina got to the last black volume and clipped the final quick draw and started to smile towards the spectators and then, according to the commentator, she got a signal from her coach and continued to the red final hold. If we want climbing going to the Olympics, we must eliminate things that the non-climbing audience could find confusing. Marking the top hold with "Top" but saying that you only get "Top" by clipping the last carabiner, possibly from two holds below, doesn't seem logical, does it?
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