18 May 2015

8C for Dai Koyamada's new Horizon

How have you been projecting such a long boulder? I didn't have any climbing trips outside Japan last year so I focused on training at my gym more than usual. Actually, this training was not only for the Super Project which is named Horizon but I did various training targeting for many kinds of problems such as short and powerful problems, resistance problems and endurance ones. Also I did lead climbing last year and made some FAs. Among the latest FAs, the hardest one is called 'Ku-ge', 8c+/9a, located in Horai, in March. Pics here 'Horizon' has 30 moves, the first half is endurance while the second half requires power and endurance for continuous hard sequences. So I think that the recent lead climbing resulted in good training. What do you think about the grade? I proposed V15~ 8C at this moment. I wrote up my thoughts about grade on my blog.(English translation is under preparation and will be posted shorty but here is auto translating) "The "grade" in climbing there is something unpleasant aspects. Pains of great climbing and challenges is to ruin it because of the inorganic numbers there also be put away. The interest of a lot of people rather than the contents of the climbing, you know it's a number of gossip also." © Ikuko Serata
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