10 May 2015

Super cruxy projects are mentally harder to do, i.e. more impressive

There is a strong trend that the hardest reported routes and boulders are just getting longer. We almost never hear about short and cruxy 9a's or 8C's. On possible reason for this is that it is mentally easier to project longer climbs where you get to climb and can more easily measure your progress, compared to just falling over and over again and get the bad feeling of yet another failure. The climbing grading system measures and compares how hard it is to redpoint something. A short cruxy climb that takes equally long time to project as a long endurance monster could be given a harder grade, as it beside the physical and technical challenge, normally is mentally tougher. In practice, it is much more frustrating to try and fail several hundred times on a one-mover for several months compared to climb and fail at the top of a long climb. If your endurance projects last several months, you have enjoyed climbing more and you know that you have improved but that might not be the case for that sharp mono move you just came close to doing. In other words, it is more more difficult and more impressive to do routes like Action Direct compared to endurance 9a, even if you invested the same amount of time. This mental difficulty seems not to be included in the current climbing grading system and might explain why very few enter a new grade with a super cruxy project.
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