Focus on crag "anti-style" for personal best

Grades are remarkable standardized around the globe and especially when it comes to endurance routes on specific crags. Routes with "anti-style" challenges are much more difficult to give correct grades as there is no reference. If the ten meters Action Direct, with crimps and finger pockets in the cruxes, would have been set up today in Oliana and Santa Linya, it might at least gotten 9a+. The reason for this is of course that in such crags, the climbers get adopted to the relatively big holds and the endurance challenges. To do a route like Action Directe, it helps to practice similar routes to strengthen the tendons and to recruit maximum power. It is also mentally frustration to do so little climbing in cold conditions and instead just struggle compared to climb long routes in the sunshine. So are you eager for a personal best, look for especially boring, bad and painful short routes in beautiful endurance challenging crags :)