17 February 2015

Moon: "On the damage caused to rock by brushing"

Ben Moon gives his opinion on chalk, pof and brushing that actually damage the holds. The article ends like this. - Anyway when British climbers saw me climbing on the Peak grit with a “pof” they were rightly up in arms. Having seen the damage that resin had done in Fontainebleau I couldn’t agree more however although there was resin in my “pof” I wasn’t using the resin part of the pof just the tail end to whack the holds. This has a similar effect as brushing but is in my opinion much more effective and does far less damage. The force of air generated by the tail end of the pof has the same effect as wind drying out and cooling the holds and thus improving the friction. Neither of these effects is achieved through brushing. I am certainly not advocating the use of a resin pof but there might be many benefits in replacing the resin with chalk and the brush with the new chalk pof.
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