15 January 2015

Get better pump by avoiding it

If your pump is not gone in ten minutes, you have trained to hard and you can just go home. If you instead continue and get a severe pump several times, your training can even be counter productive. The reason for this is that a hard pump means that your blood circulation is reduced which is really bad as you need to get out all waste products as quickly as possible to give your muscles fresh blood full of oxygen. The best way to avoid a pump is to boulder or climb shorter routes, possibly mid-ways up the wall. If you can not avoid having fun all the way to the top of the wall, potentially getting a bad pump, stay at the top jugs and rest like normal where your belayer takes of 50 % of the load for up to two minutes. As soon as all your muscle tension goes and your arms hangs down as you are coming down the wall, there is a big risk that your forearms get flooded by blood, creating the pump that reduces the circulation. Once down on the ground, lean with the arms towards the wall in order to reduce the flooding. Surely, all top climbers get pumped while they train but their blood circulation is so good so within ten minutes they can go for that endurance circle again, increasing their pump. Here is a more advanced article talking about lactic acid etc.
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