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Open forum

Who determines WC winners? The routesetters!

Adam Ondra, in his recent interview, made this very revealing statement: "...most of the lead competitors are shorter and (therefore) lighter. My height rarely gives me an advantage in lead competitions, because the route-setters don’t set reachy moves." My interpretation of this is that route setters set lead comps to favor short, light climbers.  i.e. the setters pretty well determine the type of climber who succeeds.  If they set routes differently, some (many?) of today's most successful climbers would not do well.  btw, its seems to me the opposite is true of bouldering.  This last year especially, the boulders were set to favor taller climbers.  But in both disciplines, the setters mostly determine what type of climbers do well and which don't.  That's what I take out of Adam's statement, anyway. 
I agree on what you say and of course is is a problem. I would say that the route setters have done a good job if we have different heights in the overall rankings. One solution for this is of course to use many more small foot holds meaning that the route setters can make the moves for 180 cm guys and then the taller guys can use the extra foot holds. However, when we are talking very steep routes, the height is not so important but how light the climbers are. If the walls were less steeper, we would see heavier and taller climbers high up in the rankings.