Mammut Bus
Vertical-Life
Climb to Paris
POWERED BY Mammut Logo
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
meters to Paris
VERTICAL-LIFE STATS
0
Members
0
Total ascents
0
Ascents last 30 Days
0
Ascents last 24 hours
Open forum

Beginner fingerboard: how hard should I push?

Hi I did my first fingerboard session yesterday: 3 sets of 7 seconds on, 7 seconds off with 2 minutes between sets. I did: 2 finger (index and middle fingers) on two knuckle holds (full body weight) 2 finger (ring and pinky fingers) on two knuckle holds (feet on wall taking unknown weight off: will change the setup to remove measurable weight) 3 finger on one knuckle hold (full body weight) My question is mostly about the 3 finger hang on one knuckle hold. I found this to be really hard and that I was hanging on with everything I had to hold on, by second 7 I was about to come off on most sets. I was a bit scared about injuring something on that hang since it required so much strength. So the question is: how all-in should you go on the hangs? Should it be difficult but not too-difficult? Or is it safe to push if you are able to hang on to it? I did a full warm up before hanging, around 15 minutes of light traversing and then soft boulder problems. I climb 7a and been climbing for a year. I know some are going to say: don't focus on fingerboarding, you climbed for only a year, focus on technique. I half-agree with that, but I live in Margalef: a crag that is particularly tough on monos and two finger pockets, so, while I'm climbing as much as I can and keeping a focus on technique, building finger strength is definitely important. Thanks for the help!
I would suggest you to take it slow in the beginning and not push it to much and just use one finger position the first month. If you hang 7 seconds you should feel that your maximum is at least three times as long. During the warm up you could do many 1 seconds hang in order to recruit your maximum strength.