Trad Climbing in Norway

Michal M

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Hi everyone, We will spent our vacation in south Norway this summer. We head to Setesdal but I am also looking for some climbing areas with quite some trad routes, mainly granite cracks (single- or multipitch) (difficulty up to fr. 6b/6c max.)...and for that Setesdal is not really the best, right? Do you have any suggestion where to go, and if there is a climbing guide or topos that one can get. The best would be maximum around 300km from Setesdal (Oslo - Bergen - Stavanger). Thanks a lot! Ciao Michal.

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Simon Fonn Storevik

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I think Nissedal should be about what you are looking for, 6c translates to grade 7 in the Norwegian grading scale(6b is 6+).I know very little about the place, but i found this thing in english: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Europe/Norway/Telemark/Nissedal/ You can probably do some research on your own. Norway is basically just one big granite rock, so there are lots of places, but the mayority not developed.

Staffan Ericsson

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The climbing in Nissedal is very similar to Setesdal, mainly granite slabs. Poorly protected by sparse bolts. There are some routes which are better protected. For one pitch crack climbing Bohuslän on the Swedish west-coast (on the way to Norway by car) is a perfect place. In Norway go west to Rogaland.