28 November 2014

One more 9a by Angy Eiter

Angy Eiter, one of the most accomplished lead competition climbers in history, is about to take female rock climbing to yet a new level. Yesterday she did the possibly only third repeat of Christian Bimdhammer's Big Hammer 9a in Pinswang from 2005. In 2014, the four times world champion, has done four 8c+ and two 9a's which is the best female tick list ever for a year. Great interview by ClimbZA including her tick list up to 8B in Rocklands from this summer. (c) Bernie Ruech Wow, so how many days of projecting and how do you train nowadays? Yeah I can't believe this achievement yet. I tried "Big Hammer" this autumn for my first time and I had no idea how to solve one of the two hard boulder problems in this route. Finally I found a suitable solution for my size. However, the pocket in this crux was a battle, both painful and tough. All in all in needed about ten days of projecting. Nowadays, I don't follow any specific training regime any more. My body and mind give the program its direction, which includes a healthy mixture of routes and boulder training. Additionally, I regulary do some power exercises.
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