Hi all, I'm visiting Frankenjura next week for the 2nd time with my girlfriend, who does not climb much, but wants to lead. Unfortunately, well protected easy routes are quite rare there... Can anyone recommend a crag in the shade, with good, easy, well-protected routes and some 7a-7bs? Thanks in advance Martin
Martin, this is the ultimate question of the FJ ! Generally the FJ is very well protected, except for some routes. I know that especially climbers in the lower grades do not always share this opinion. So if your girlfriend does not climb a lot and wants to lead, FJ might not be the best training ground. However its safe due to good bolts. Generally the requested grade range on one crag is rare and you can be sure that such crags will be always crowded. As the crags are usually just some minutes driving away from each other, it might be better to start the morning in one area and move in the afternoon to one with more difficult routes. However check
Leupoldsteiner Wand, shade
Betzensteiner Sportkletterwände, shade
Schwarzbrennerei, shade
Neue Heimat, shade
Weissenstein, sun and extra crowded
Schlossbergwände, mostly shade
Have fun !
I just spend a couple of weeks in Frankenjura climbing mostly 7a-7b as you request, and I agree with Horss, however I was what wandering what grade-range the easier routes should be?
Easy Routes in Frankenjura