15 October 2014

8c by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, who has done 43 boulders 8A and harder, has done Mecca extension 8c in Raven Tor. After having competed succesfully for four seasons in the WC bouldering circuit, she stopped midways in 2014. (c) Jon Clark "I have taken a step back from competing, it just wasn't making me happy and I get a lot more enjoyment from climbing outdoors. Never say never, I may do the odd event in the future but I doubt I will ever do a full season again or commit to them as I have in the past." How it is possible for a boulderer to do an 8c endurance route? Well this particular route is an endurance test but it's not 50m or anything! It is about 25m in total in fact. You climb a short (I think about 12m) 8b+ to a good rest and then an 8a+ headwall….so it is good for a boulderer because it has hard moves but I needed my body to be able to recover almost completely from the 8b+ section! In short I did a lot of endurance training because I wanted to turn my hand to routes, I think with endurance training it is very much "effort input = performance output". So I worked hard. Plans for 2015: I am off to Red Rocks before Christmas to go bouldering but in 2015 I am psyched for more routes in the UK and hopefully abroad too.
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Mina Leslie-Wujastykhas done her third 8A in 2009, Wenn Kuadrick Butter War in Zillertal. Mina says, "Trav cool moves. Soft?" Sometimes Traverses are graded softer but in this case it is likely not the case as there are three other 8A ascents in the data base of the boulder.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done her seventh 8A during the last 12 months, The Arete With the Pocket in Chironico. "soft, really nice problem, kept falling off the end til now! :)", maybe due to fighting with temperatures around zero degrees for some weeks now in Chironico :-)

Ukclimbing has a nice interview with Mina Leslie-Wujastyk who has done four 8A's this winter.