11 October 2014

The legends thoughts on competition

Patxi Arocena made podium in two World Cups 20+ years ago and in the last world championship he was route setter. "Jain Kim onsighted an 8c in the World Championship finals and a maximum of eight male would have topped out that route. A big problem for the route setters nowadays is the the different levels. The best guys are just getting better at the same time as, sometimes, the local guys can not onsight 8a." Boone Speed, the #1 sport climber pioneer in the US some 20 years ago with with possibly 1 000 FAs including boulders. "The current format is just boring and I never watch a competition because there is no action. Personally, I hated the isolations. The way forward is Psicobloc. This fomat is something everyone could understand and enjoy. Sure, some could hurt themself but not serious and still in other sports like snow boarding, skate board we see and enjoy the risk the athletes are taking. JB Tribout, one of the best climbers both on rock and in comps some 25 years ago. "IFSC should allow anybody to compete without going through their federations. It is not good for our sport that only the best compete and below there is nothing. How can you challenge the best without doing several competitions. This is a big problem in France. How is it possible that our sport does not see any development when it comes to broadcasting in TV?
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