10 October 2014

Bellavista chipped from 8c to 8b (+)

Alex Huber, well known for his hard gradings and for being one of the leading climbers in the mid 90-ies, explaines that his Bellavista has got chipped and instead of being 8c it is more likely 8b or 8b+ nowadays. "I went up with the South Tyrolean local Martin Kopfsguter and found a heavily nailed route with all pitons connected with a fix rope. Furthermore the crux pitch was heavily manipulated. There are many cristallized fossilx in the dolomite rock of Tre Cime and if you work hard, you can break out many of these. Then remains a pocket or hole which looks basically natural. But for cleaning a tooth-brush is defenitly not enough: you need hammer and chisel. In the former crux traverse in the middle of the pitch you had to crimp thin edges where you find now big pockets, some of more than 10 centimeters in diameter. The character is heavily changed even though it remains to be a great and fantastic climb. The grading is somewhere in between 8b and 8b+.
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