25 September 2014

James Pearson does Rhapsody E11 : 8c R

James Pearson has made the fourth ascent of Dave Macleod's Rhapsody in Dumbarton Rock, the first E11 in UK equivalent to an 8c (+) R and which has seen a lot of controvercy. First Pearson said it was over graded and then, Sonnie Trotter, who made the first repeat, said that the 35 m route is in fact an elimination. The second repeater, on pre-placed gear, Steve McClure said that Sonnie did the pure FA as Macleod in fact pre-placed all gear and then reversed 25+ m to the ground. Later Macleod said McClure had escaped to early to the left in the end which in other words means that the first E11 in UK is in fact a double elimination done mainly on top rope. Trotter went further saying McClure did not do Rhapsody. James did a very quick ascent, yet to know, which style and what he thinks of the route and grade and to also see if he also did some long 15 m fall as the first two ascentionists did several times. (c) Chris Prescott / Hot Aches Productions
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