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problems with La sportiva solution..

Eskild Rost

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I was wondering if anybody else has a problem with fucking up their la sportiva solutions? Since i heard a lot of good things about them i got a pair for x-mas. Used them for some weeks indoors climbing and then i ripped the velcro thing of the string. Back to the shop for a new pair. Then i save the new pair for this years font trip. i was now careful not to pull on the velcro and used just the string. 3 weeks of climbing and i rip the shoe string of. and it looks like the other stress points are about to go anytime.   Dont know if i have super human strenght or something, does not show in my grades. But i have had grate deal of climbing shoes in the past and have never had this problem before. Like its a aggressiv shoe, so you have to pull on the shoestring, otherwise why are they there?  but...  if i keep this up im getting new shoes every month. So its not that bad.

22 replies

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Dale Cooper

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So you are pulling on the "shoe string" to get them on?I have broken the thin fastening strap and I sent them to La Sportiva, and they replaced the shoes based on warranty. I think that the strap is a bit flimsy, and is too exposed near the grommets on the inside of the shoe, so if you drag or scum with the inside of your foot the strap will wear down, making it easier to tear when you tighten. Unless the shoes are sized on the large side, you shouldn't need to tighten them that much as they are a tight fitting slipper already. You also might try to use the two pull-on straps for getting the shoe on as they are made of better material and much sturdier.

Eskild Rost

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Not pulling on it to get the shoe on, just to get it tight. It just seems like the shoe string is melting from the friction where it goes threw the metal hole on the shoe. been carefull, since i broke the first par, not to pull to hard, just like normal training shoes.. but still.. think i`m gonna try the miura next time.

Aleksandr Prohhorov

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You're not alone, I had the same problem. The reason was that the friction through the metal hole was too tight. Fortunately, they sit so nicely even without the velcro part and I was able to climb in them till they were completely worn out.

Michiel S

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This seems to be a common problem. The string wears through when the metal ring is rusty. The ring starts to rust when the shoe is still moist from sweat after climbing and is but in a bag straight away. So letting your shoe dry after climbing or getting it out of your bag immediately when you get home after a gym session should solve this problem.

Eskild Rost

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well.. when you pay so much for a shoe they should use something that does not rust.. and it still does not explane when i ripped of the velcro.. well well.. on pair nummero 3 now.. got them 3 sizes down and gonna do the drying thing.. so maybe they`ll hold for the summer:)

Tom Apers

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maybe you can ask for the testa rossa as your next replacement. they have laces, so no velcro to rip. :-)

anderfo

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However, La Sportiva laces are also famous for being very weak. Actually, I managed to rip apart the Miura laces already in the shop! (before buying them, with laces replaced by another type, of course)

Aleksandr Prohhorov

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Oh, so it's not just me with torn apart Miura laces? Good to hear :). I got two pairs of Miuras and both had ripped apart laces after some 3-4 months of active climbing. I had to replace them with a much stronger type. The reason, from what I could see, was that the leather parts of a shoe, through which the laces go, was too shaggy and the friction tore the lace rather quickly.

Alec Liang

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I experienced the same issue recently!!!!!!!!!! Luckily i found this company,HANCHOR, to help me fix it and was FREE. But i really think La Sportiva should improve their material choosing for grommets , otherwise this issue will repeat again and again. >< http://hanchor.com/home/news/atom/31/

Thore Juergensen

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Take care going for to strong laces. I know a girl who had a weird fall were her shoes laces clipped the biner in the fall. Because of that, she turned upside down. Luckily it was normal "week" laces, so the laces ripped and she ended the fall without injuring her foot. Just for the guys who replace there laces with superstrong 2 mm nyloncord.

Mike Johnston

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I have the exact same problem. I have multiple pairs of Solutions now, all of them with torn straps. None of them even made it to the first resoling. This is a serious quality problem given it is one of the most expensive shoes you can buy. La Sportiva: we're climbers and we know a tiny piece of Dyneema can hold a truck, so if you could please not put crap straps on your shoes that would be fantastic, and don't tell us it's not possible.

Christian Stohr

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Dyneema might hold a truck, but if it's pulled over the grommets over and over again eventually it will fail, too :) The strap is not really the problem, as I see it.

Bonar McCallum

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I've worn through at least 5 pairs of solutions and never had an issue with the strap. might be a preference thing on how tight you like the strap to be, and how tight your shoes are for that matter. I find I like my shoes not quite as tight as I used to, adn due to the snug design of the shoe, I don't really feel the need to crank on the strap really hard.

Gianluca Boldetti

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i have a brand new pair on which i have pre-treated the string with "polyglutene", a polyurethane-based paint wich is usually used to protect canyoning wetsuits from abrasion... i will post again if successful. i just need the help of unhappy solution owners on one point: is the abrasion happening mainly on the outside of the string (the part that can be in contact with the rock) or on the inside (the side that actually touches the grommet)?

Alec Liang

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hi gianluca , According to my experience, it's the side that touches the grommet.

Litus Vinagrete

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I broke both shoestring... The first and the last pair of sportiva solution.

Olli-Pekka Saxell

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In my experience, the most important thing is to make sure that the string is straight when you pull it tight. It twists easily and then the abrasion to the grommet wears it down fast. I have had about 4 pairs. With one pair I paid no attention to the orientation of the strings when tightening. lasted only few months. Others have been ok and resoled twice. I use the broken ones still for indoor training. But I pull the strings really tight only when I need to use heel hooks...

Michael Hjorth

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I'm on by second pair of Solution & both have been resoled twice. Never had this strap problem! My best shoes ever! For me they are as giant a leap forward as when I went from Galibier Super Guide to EB's and from EB's to Fire´s...;-) The sole's "soft rigidness" I find un-equalled in any other shoe...! Michael

Brian Weaver

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I find that a piece of tape wrapped over that point makes a big difference to the longevity of the strap. I noticed a bunch of the guys doing this in Rocklands. I find that it prevents any wear and tear.

stefan warsink

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brain: I've done that as well. takes a little fiddling, but duct tape has worked splendidly for me. added bonus is the stiffer result, which makes you tighten and close the straps with a little more control. doesn't take away from the fact that LaSpo needs to just change their design to smooth plastic grommets instead of the rustprone metal ones..