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Patxi Usobiaga climbing Biographie

There is a link in his blog. Just seen the video from Patxi and Sharma and there is a huge difference in styles. Patxi looks like he is climbing 6c and Sharma just keeps screaming and looks much harder. Technique vs Strenght, interesting :)
I don't think it's necessarily technique vs strength, more like different techniques for different bodies. Taller climbers always tend to climb more dynamically in my experience. I doubt that all of them have bad technique and all short climbers have great technique.
what bullshit I havnt seen the video. But try to climb that slow as patxi and I am sure you will not get far. I think he wastes a lot of power with that style. yes he has it but maybe he could even climb harder with another style. Screaming fighting and slabbing forever.Chris Sharma is just too weak to climb static, but at least he's psyched
it's also a matter of relative strenghts. patxi trains as a machine for comps and onsighting, his strategy looks like being able to rest on the smallest possible hold, to study the next move. it is natural that he would climb slow also in a redpoint, he trained like hell for achieving that. But I bet that if he trained for one season only for some intense short project-redpointing outside, he would change his style accordingly... i would be courious to see a video of ethan pringle doing/trying it, that summer he looked like one of the the most fluent, balanced styles of the whole crag on similar overhanging climbs, but i've never seen him on it. plus, he made the fastest repeat...
You guys are right, it's more Static vs Dynamic climbing. For sure both of them are really strong :) I allways prefered static climbing than dynamic, much more elegant and controled. In the video you can see in the crux Sharma jumping to the key hold and Patxi just using an intermediate hold to reach that one totally static (impressive)
Maybe Patxi's video is a compilation, that could explain his style in the video?
If Patxi looks static you should see Ramon Julian in La Rambla. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VolaZhy6Tow He is even more static. Though, it could also be a compilation video.
Why do you guys think is a compilation video? It's the video for the rp ascent like sharma's
8a training article that explains the static world cup climbing technique
just seen some video of A.Ondra on la rambla - that boy just doesn't like the use of hangers... He is really used to take some big falls! despite his fast dynamic style! impressive( well they all are! )
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I have been at some 20 WC competitions and almost everyone is climbing slow and static. Ondra changed this is 2010 showing that a fast dynamic technique might be better.
->jens L. Well ondra also showed us that fast and dynamic comp. climbing can leed to a fast exit.... if not one foot or hold is not engaged correct. The static style is slow and exausting. But much safer if the climber is not 100% sure(and right) in the way he has read the placement on the holds and feet.
I am pretty sure that Ramonets video is not his redpoint but actually filmed afterwards as a compilation. It just looks too easy and doesn't even the camera position change at some point? not sure anymore. That doesn't mean of course that I doubt his ascent!
wtf.?!? really inspiring video!!!! psyced for climbing this shit one day :-) and thx for uploading such cool video!
@dreamingof8a how many ascents are filmed as a single sequence? none that I can recall. Does that mean the climber was also climbing sequences? It could, but also it could mean that the filming team shot several attempts, and in the end compiled the best shooting angles in the video. Take the Cobra crack sequence with Didier Berthod from th First Ascent movie. Since he never sent it, we know he was not posing for the camera, as he was focused on sending it. But suppose he would have, eventually. Why show the footage only from the actual send, when you can make a greater video by mixing different shots from differents tries, but who all document the same effort? Also think of the Dean Potter ascent from the Tombstone (also in "First Ascent"). If you watch the bonus at the end of the movie, you see that at some point, Dean took a rest, and the cameraman moved up, then resumed filming. So you have two angles, yet taken by the same guy on the same ascent. Do you think this is an exception? Why do we never see climbers resting for more than 10 seconds? Wait! I remember a climb filmed as a single sequence! and it happens to be Dave Graham's Biographie ascent!! Guess what? I have never seen so many comment doubting the ascent, and even better, the fact it was actually Biographie... just because the angle is not the one they are used to (from above left, like on the sharma footage) and because the method is not the same... I advise you to watch Millet's ascent of Biographie (check it on youtube) and you'll see how smooth some climbers can be on this route. Sharma's style is very impressive, but is is definitely not the rule, nor the only way to climb hard...
dreamingof8a: I read some time ago that the video of Ramonet on Las Ramblas is not the red-point FA, but a staged shoot for the video.  Like you, I'm sure he sent the route. 
@ Louis: Dave Graham on realization?? What are you talking about?
for the news or the youtube video, just try " dave graham realization" on google...
@louis Totally agree with you, that's basically what I wanted to say :-) I don't doubt any of these ascents. Where would we end if we didn't believe comments on a edited clip in Dosage like "xxx 9a, first ascent"? Imagine watching a soccer match and doubting the result is real because it's not filmed in a single sequence :-) And usually staged clips are even better in term sof quality, shooting angle and action so I don't mind them at all. Examples for a single sequence: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Npn5vix06E http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3EJctYJzpk seems to be a popular route for this kind of footage ;-)
On Patxi's video they only cut the part he rests, just like Sharma's video, so it's for sure the rp ascent. Just look at Patxi's face when he finishes the climb, so happy :)
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