8 August 2014

8c+ FA on preplaced trad gear by Roland Hemetzberger

Roland Hemetzberger has done the FA of Zarathustra 8c+ in Kufstein and it was done with preplaced trad gear including five pegs. It was bolted in 1996 and Roland wanted to try a sport climbing route in a rather alpine style. He started to work on the project alone on a fixed rope when he realised it could be done on trad gear. "It was maby the Last Great Big Project there and I wanted to give them a real high class route. I used pegs, birdpeaks and nuts in the 40m line, but the last 6 meters are blank and there is the crux..." Roland, who previously has done one 9a, Lichtblick, has removed all bolts. Check his blog with more great adventures. (c) ABPro
9 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…