28 July 2014

8c/+ onsight by Francesco Vettorata

Francesco Vettorata, boyfriend to Jenny Lavarda and who was #10 in the last WC, went to St Léger with 8a as a personal onsight best. After having done his first 8b onsight, his coach pointed at L'idéal chimérique, 8c/+ in the topo, saying this was also 8b. "I immediately fell in love with the line. I took the rope and I quickly tied up- The wind was really strong and the first part of the route was continuity on discrete but distant holds with dynamic moves. Later it got more intense with smaller holds and with a really hard crux and I did it. My coach told me. "Do you know what you did? An 8c+." I didn't believe. I'm very happy with it and now I think many more things.
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