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2009-09-10 18:34:53 |
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Having already identified that I needed a new pair of shoes in the near
future, as some shoes I inherited are too big for me and they are
getting well old (model; Spirit from chezch brand Saltic), I've been looking and trying various marks and models.
Also in relation to where I climb I've been trying to look realistically on what I should get as well, knowing that I really climb (and want to climb) a lot of different things (granite/limestone/sandstone/boulder) and can't really afford to have shoes for different things.
But then...
I won a pair of La Sportiva Speedster climbing shoes at a film-showing of "Pure" where I live and it has really suddenly provided me with a dilemma. As a relative beginner; I'm completely blank when it comes to knowing whether they will do any good for me...
I've only owned one pair of shoes in my life and I have never bought any. That said; The speedster wasn't really what I had in mind... I'm really happy that I've won them and I'm more than willing to give them a try, but I've looked around the web for some feedback and can't seem to really find any information more than publicity... so I wonder if anyone can give me some feedback on them?
andreas
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2009-09-10 18:43:01 |
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I have tested them for a while and I am about to write a review.
Personally, I love them. They are the best when it comes to overhanging stuff. Normally, you can say that they are the best when it comes to big or no holds. When it comes to millimeter edges on vertical stuff they are very bad.
You will get stronger in your feet by using them. Normally, I recommend shoes like this for small climbers. If you are 75+ kilo you are better of with a normal shoe with an edge.
Please, feel free to give your review of the Speedster show.
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2009-09-10 23:49:07 |
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Hey Andreas, what I would say do is sell those shoes to fund for a better all-around shoe and a better shoe for your skill level. The Speedster is definitely a shoe that is geared more specifically towards very steep climbing for climbers experienced enough to know how to pull with their feet like hands. It is essentially a rubber sock, and way too soft to be a good all-around shoe. Even if all you wanted to do was climb overhangs, I still would say they wouldn't be good for you yet, as your feet just don't have the strength to support you that well yet, nor are they strong enough to be able to compensate for the lack of edging ability in these shoes. Not only that but the thin rubber that the shoes are made out of won't hold up long as your technique is still developing and therefore a good deal sloppy, which leads to increased wear and tear on the shoe. They are a good shoe, but definitely geared towards an advanced climber for a specific context. What I would send you looking for is a good mid-level shoe of medium stiffness, with a tight fit, but don't look for much of a down-turn if you are looking for one shoe to do everything with, it'll be great on the overhanging stuff, but you'll skate off on smears and hate them for slabs. If you want suggestions shoot me a message on here with what brands are available in your area and I'll tell you some good models to look into.
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2009-09-11 01:13:36 |
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I own a pair of the Speedsters and just love them but totally agree with Jens and Kyle. While these are perfect for roofs or super overhanging routes, they're massively painful and crappy on anything small and close to vertical. If you want to stick to La Sportiva as a brand then for an all-around-shoe Katanas would be a good choice (or Miura if you can bare the laces). If you want more accuracy for small footholds then maybe Testarossa (Mammut Samurai is basically the same shoe with lower price tag), Solution or Miura VS would be your choice.
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2009-09-11 14:30:01 |
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Andreas,
If you won a gift certificate from Sportiva, you could just call in and ask to exchange them for something else comparable in price. Those guys are extremely helpful and would fully understand your predicament. Tony
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2009-09-11 20:14:16 |
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just saw this post. i put up a quick review on my blogsite yesterday evening. it's no directly on point with the initial question, but a review of the shoe nevertheless.
for what it's worth:
http://straightouttabedlamv7-2.blogspot.com/2009/09/la-sportiva-speedsters-interim-review.html
best
--j
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2009-09-12 01:31:18 |
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interestinly, my first pair of shoes were saltic shiwas... or i think that was the name. my second pair of shoes were the sportiva cobras, which opened new worlds of performance to me. if you are able to exchange, i would whole heartedly recommend the cobra, which lists for a few dollars less. they worked for me edging, smearing, climbing steeps, and slabs. a shoe like the muira will serve you slightly better for long edgy routes and heel hooking, but if you are not able to upgrade to the muira or muira vs, the cobra should be great. maybe the katana as a second alternative? less technical, in my opinion, but probably a good all-arounder and very comfortable for most foot shapes.
--j
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