How can I increase my shoulder strength?

Here are some links with good info: http://www.bodyresults.com/E2UpperStrengthRock.asp http://www.indoorclimbing.com/exercise.html http://www.rock-climbing-for-life.com/strength_training_for_climbing.html (you have to scroll down a bit on this page) All state pretty similar methods, so this should get you started & good luck! -b

Ash, as far as I feel strong shoulders and upper back are more crucial for having more reach in very "open" frontal moves, expecially on steep ground. slopers require some time to work out the best technique (you can't pull them "outside" like positive holds) and a lot of physical strenght in general : you have to pull them in a very specific direction, so it is hard to both hold them and push a lot with your feet...it is definitely easier to let the upper body do most of the work. But i'd say it is more a matter of biceps, pectorals and abdominals than of "shoulders". Still, if you want to do some selective training for "shoulders" it can be an excellent, even mandatory idea for injury prevention : becoming very strong in the abs-pect-biceps chain aforementioned, can lead to bad postures (forward-rolled shoulders, arched back) that are both bad-looking AND dangerous. Learned it at my own expense... Shoulder injuries are more common than thought in climbing, they get less attention than others only because they are not as "climbing specific" as fingers or elbows. Just look on the internet (or better ask a gym coach) for exercises that train three main muscle families : -a) Shoulder rotator cuff, expecially the muscles that make the "external rotation" move happen -b) shoulder blade stabilizers -c) triceps Notice that the exercises you can do for those muscles all require some degree of "learning the correct technique" otherwise they are counter-productive, so the very best thing is asking a good weight training coach to show you.   In general, if you want to do a weight lifting program besides training on the wall, it is better if you put more emphasis on those muscles that do not play the major role in most climbing moves, but are still required for a "stabilizing" or secondary function. In general, if they get too weak compared to their neighbours, you get problems... One example is in shoulders, another is in elbows : you can get tennis elbow if your finger and wrist extensors (that are only playing a big role in crimping, and only if you crimp properly) are too weak compared to your finger flexors (that are always active no matter what the hold).

It might be worth considering a series of basic rings conditioning exercises. I think they can be an excellent way to improve overall shoulder strength without creating imbalances, if done correctly.

On those holds hang on to your callous maybe angle wrist a bit. Sloper problems duh. yeeehoooo