Finger injuries prevention

For me it's the most important that i climb regularly and have enough rest between trainings. I climb 1-1-1 and if i rest more than 3 days i feel that my fingers are ready to injure if i climb hard. So after longer pause i start with at least 1 easy day climbing. It works for me and i had pretty the same problems with fingers that you do.

Hi Natalya First of all 2.5 years is to short time to develop tendons and joint strong enough to withstand the stress of campus board or hard bouldering  - it should be regarded as for the elite that are genetically gifted with good healing. Having said that a good way to up your injury resistance is to add on unspecific strenght training -weight lifting using forarmloading exercises- to freqvently squeeze a foam ball to get healing cirkulation going- to supplement with Glucosamine combined with Omega fattyacid (preferably from seal)- and off course to allway step up succesively when "going for it". Always listen your bodys signal of pain and swelling as these are caution signals - cut back and rest in time! There are more tips in my article on injuries in this years 8a book and also you will find more extensive articles written by me in the forum treads Best of lyck Björn

to joza: I climb 3 times a week (Mon-Wed-Fri), so I have one or two day rest. Maybe if I didn't climb regularly situation would be even worst, but now I can say it doesn't help. :) to Bjorn: I used similar ways when recovering after an injury about a year ago, but always forget about it when it gets better... So thanks for reminding! Will look for more articles. :)

I had loads of injuries when I restarted climbing after a ten year break. (Lived near the sea, so surfed and windsurfed as there were no rock. Live near rock again now:)). I made several changes, technique, grip, variable intensity training, rest days and body feedback, which have all helped to stop injuries, For technique i use my feet much more and initiate movement from the legs rather than hauling on the arms. Work on your technique not the campus board. Once you start pulling with your feet and not your fingers you will climb harder. Good footwork also helps avoid the slips which over load your fingers. Grip I do everything open handed.I started avoiding all hyperextended crimpy moves and used my hand open all the time. At worst do a half crimp but only save the full crimp for special occasions such as incut holds where it's hard to avoid. I periodise my training so I avoid overuse injuries. So I boulder for a month, then really anaerobic pumpy routes for a few weeks, then I rest followed by a week of being my strongest when I try projects before starting the whole cycle again. This has really worked wonders for my progress and injuries. As too much bouldering does my fingers but too many pumpy routes starts to wear out my elbows! So mixing it up really helps. Finally if i sense the slightest twinge from my body I take an extra rest day and change the program to suit the tweak.