21 May 2014

Action Directe - The first 9a and the most famous route in the world

In order to give credit to the old school pioneers, Mammut wanted their athletes to reclimb six classics and it was Jan hojer who got he most prestigious task, Action Directe. On the picture by Gerd Heidorn, who also took the legendary pics of Wolfgang, Jan is sticking the first crux move going from a one-finger pocket to a two finger pocket. Wolfgang Güllich put it up in 1991 after years of projecting including specific training on his invention, the campus board. Originally he put it up as an UIAA XI, which at that time corresponded to 8c+/9a, but later it was upgraded to 9a. Wolfgang had previously also done the first 8b, 8b+ and 8c in the world. More info of the legend who died in a car accident in 1992. Mammut has the great full story including the historical background, pictures, interviews and a video.
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