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Which is the better training method?
OffLine gabor
  2006-06-03 06:01:33    
Hey,

I was just wondering, which method do you guys think is better for training:

1.) Climbing almost every day but not pushing myself completely to my limit any of the days.
2.) Climbing only 3 or 4 times a week but completely pushing myself at each practice.

I would like opinions especially from competitive climbers, or ones that have done a lot of training.

Thanks!
OffLine Ben
  2006-07-08 17:32:34    
I use the 3-4 times a week because it gives your body ample time to recover. Even if you arent pushing yourself as faf as you can go, climbing everyday puts unneccesary strain on your body with little recovery time.
OffLine Ben
  2006-07-08 17:33:47    
PS Especially at the level youre climbing
OnLine Milky "Bonerack" Williams
  2006-08-24 03:16:43    
hey Gabor, this is mike from the new. I climb nearly everyday but never max out because I'm always "saving something" for the next day. Trying to onsight, or redpoint projects. But I haven't really progressed substantially in the past three years or so. I've read that Josune will do nothing but a strictly regimented training schedule for something crazy like six months. then rest accordingly and send really hard shit. I think that to really get stronger you should do a heavy load training day of power stuff (campusing, system training, etc) then rest, repeat, repeat. If you want to know how to go from 13a to 14a in one year......ask your sister!
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2006-12-26 14:40:07    
I suggest a mixture. You can go intense for one month, pushing yourself maximum 3-4 times a week. The next month you can climb every day with a lower load.
OffLine Infinity
  2008-05-19 10:37:31    
This may sound odd, but I have found myself going up almost a grade every few weeks simply by taking a few days,  mmaybe two or three, where I climb the hardest things I can, and then on the other days, climbing easier, but usually not more than a grade or two below what I can do, unless they are extremely muscle using problems. If you climb all but one day a week, this should work, but then again, if your not used to the strain, it can be kind of devastating, and you will find yourself unable to even do a pull up on some days, until your body gets used to the pace.
OffLine Michael Womack
  2009-06-04 03:59:07    
What i do is keep in shape by climbing six days a week. i do strength training once a week. and also i push myself climbing routes out of my range once, maybe twice a week.
If you can't complete anything you're attempting, give it a break.
If you're flashing/onsighting everyone you see, then push yourself!!
Make goals!!!
OffLine Michael Womack
  2009-06-04 04:06:22    
ive been doing this. and i've gone from being really out of shape (having to hangdog a .6) to onsighting 10d's, and redpointing 11c's in five months.
OffLine Tye Watkins
  2009-06-19 17:02:08    
Climbing without pushing yourself to your limit ever, is almost a complete waste of time. Your body, (mainly your brain, your CNS) will not learn to recruit muscle fiber more efficiently, and you will not really be gaining the climbing specific "power" that we look for.

Gabor, you seem to be serious about learning to train yourself. I suggest you pick up a few books on the subject. Most climbers either have no idea what to do, very basic ideas, or wrong ideas.

I suggest: Periodization: Theory and Methodology of training by Tudor Bompa
OffLine CuriousCLimber
  2009-08-31 00:37:14    
I say it depends on what level of difficulty climber are you.

If you are just starting off or getting back in shape, climbing everday is the right choice. This helps to get your body muscles adapted to the muscle strains and intensities of climbing workouts.

As you progress further, you nid to start developing a training schedule that lets you climb 50% of the time, then condition the other 50% of the time. This is where you push yourself slightly harder in order to come out of that comfort zone and gain the power and strengths needed to do impending hard project routes.

Once you reach the professional level, 7Bs and above, is where you be conditioning 70% of the time as you would have master the techniques skills needed for climbing. And by then, all you nid is pure brute force to conquer those routes that die trying.

However, this is the theoratical approach.

The practical approach as shown by most professional climbers is to just climb everyday and rest when seriously needed. That is when you would have suffered a rly bad injury. Dave Graham and Paul Robinson are some examples. Though, I do believe that they do specific conditionings when they are tryin to overcome a route problem that expose their weaknesses.

But Patxi and Andrada trains at very high level (if i'm not mistaken) by doing sets rather than focusing on climbing only.

In conclusion, the best training method are the one that suits your style, situation, etc. That is why you nid to experiment yourself to see which method works the best for you. Researching on training methods tends to broaden your knowledge rather than giving you an answer of what is the best method.
OffLine Pete George
  2012-06-30 11:20:37    
For training? I think it's nearly indisputable, climbing harder with rest days is better, than taking it easy and climbing everyday.


That said when I take a trip to a new area I usually climb easier(OS/flash attempts) routes and climb everyday. It's more fun, but I wouldn't consider that kind of climbing trip part of my training