6 March 2015

How to quickly get stronger and get best prepared for outdoors

We are getting closer to spring and for all the route climbing guys that have not been training so often and hard at the gym, it is about time to also do some power training. The easiest thing is of course just to do some hard bouldering in the beginning of each session but the most efficient training is done through dead hangs and campus boarding. 15 minutes recruitment- power training A. 5 one sec dead hangs, 30 sec rest, 5 reps B. 2 campus moves, 30 sec rest, 5 reps C. 5 sec dead hangs, 1 minute rest, 5 reps D. 10 sec hangs on the smallest hold possible, 2 min rest, 2-4 reps (You can repeat it up to 10 times if you are experienced and want a stronger focus on power). Start easy and you should feel that you get stronger all the time, otherwise increase the rest. It is also important to hang in the gripping angle you want to get stronger in which normally is a bit more crimping compared to what you practice in the gym. Only if you are experienced you should aim for the closed crimp as in the picture. In general, the power session is best done with open crimp meaning, less steep angle of your fingers and also no thumb avove your index finger. Longer power training article
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