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Jan Hojer - The big power house
  2013-01-31 00:00:00    
GuiGui Mondet who did The Big Island, 8C some weeks ago watched Jan Hojer repeating it. "He did it easy. It was so impressive, he is definitely my idol! I think a possible 8B sit start into an 8C, could be 9A? Adam or Jan can do it but it is to hard for me."

186 cm and 78 kilo Jan comments, "The Big Island is totally my style. I can probably reclimb it pretty fast and I believe that I might add some moves into that boulder with some work. I didn't really try the sit yet because it was super cold the day. I only made one quick "try" where I broke off a little foot- hold and due to freezing feet and hands I decided to call it a day. But I'm psyched to get on the sit some day if I can resist all the other boulders in the forest

Which temperature do you think is the best for bouldering?
"I like temperatures around zero to try really hard stuff or friction depending climbs but in 10-15 degrees a climbing day is more enjoyable for me :)"

What are your strong and weak points?
"I guess I'm good at athletic climbs, compression boulders and big moves... well, I'm not flexible and another weakness is finger strength, I train it a lot but I'm probably to fat to get super strong on crimps :)

You have previously said you only boulders 4-9 hours a week. Do you do any complementary training like body power?
"No, I don't do any other training or running, just a little bit of stretching... campusing boulders and campus boarding is everything I do to improve my body power! I also do some route setting at Chimpanzodrome in Frechen. (c) DAV
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OffLine jarvoramas
  2013-02-01 03:01:43    
It's so good seeing a bigger guy crushing hard stuff .
OffLine Markku Laine
  2013-02-01 08:58:31    
In another recent thread, Jan Hojer himself states that his height is 188cm and weight is 79kg. Maybe his ability to adjust his height and weight is the key to success ;)
OnLine Christoph Barthel
  2013-02-01 10:58:05    
Nice short interview.
I personally would really like to know how the part about the "only training 4-9 hours a week" is to be understand.....
I mean, is only bouldering, let' say 8 hours a week and the rest is route climbing training? Or does he train really hard for 8 hours every week, and the rest of his 30 hour climbing pensum he just considers recreational ?
Maybe this also is supposed to mean he goes bouldering for 20 hours a week but he subtracts every minute he didn't spend hanging on the wall from the total time spend at the training facility? So we are talking about 8-9 hours pure bouldering time, right?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-02-01 11:17:48    

From our facebook chat:

I'm often alternating weeks with many sessions (4-5) and less intensive weeks with only 2 sessions, depending on how i feel. a session rarely takes longer than two hours...


what is your most important element in training?
i totally agree with Tyler Landman:
"My tip for getting stronger is to climb steep, straight angles, 30-45 degrees; big moves between bad holds, where you must keep your feet on. This develops footwork and body tension. No heel hooks, toe hooks or anything like that, just basic straightforward pulling"

OffLine Derek Bredl
  2013-02-01 22:38:12    

@Christoph Barthel


I would doubt any pro climber would be climbing 40 hours a week, training or recreationally. I'm not overly surpised that an obviously very strong climber is only climbing 5-10 hours a week total. You truly do need rest time in between hard sessions to get good gains, and even less actual training time to simply maintain.

OffLine Truls Martin Larsen
  2013-02-02 00:28:48    
I've never encountered a boulder problem comprising of  two consequtive moves: one being 7A and the other 7B, which then makes that boulder get 7C!?!

Those problems I've tried that are like that still gets 7B...
So how does: 8B + 8C become 9A? (Unless you are getting into the 8C problem with you hands "less" perfect on the start holds, making it harder, off course.)
Sport - bouldering confusion?


maybe I haven't climbed around many enough places...
OnLine Peter Klaun
  2013-02-02 00:48:32    
have you ever wondered why usain bolt doesn't run a marathon in about an hour?
OffLine Regan McCaffery
  2013-02-02 01:10:39    
You are quite correct Truls. An 8B into an 8C can't be 9A. It is 8C+ Maximum. 

There are many examples at all levels but let's just take two.

 "The Story of Two Worlds":  8B into 8B/8B+ = Hard 8C 
"Terremer": 8A+/8B into 8B/8B+ = Soft 8C

OffLine Vali Cretu
  2013-02-02 02:08:44    
Nice one Peter :)) oh, and Regan probably climbs 8C+ himself but didn't tick it in the 8a.nu scorecard, because he seems to know so many things about cutting-edge bouldering and the grading standards accompanying it. Get a life.
OffLine Regan McCaffery
  2013-02-02 03:43:28    
Vali, here is a very good post by someone who is at the cutting edge which makes it easier to understand how grading works. Paul Robinson breaks down some of the worlds hardest problems down into sections in this very informative post.

Basically think of a boulder into another boulder of the same grade makes it 2 grades harder. For example 8A+ into 8A+ = 8B+.  Then work up or down from there depending on the exact grades, if they are hard or easy, rests etc etc. Paul explains it very well.

http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/post/5226848077/my-2-cents

You will see that the sit start to The Island thus cannot be 9A based on the given breakdown of 8B into 8C. It is irrelevant what level you climb at to see this. It is the same method for all levels.
OffLine Jan Hojer
  2013-02-02 08:21:59    
If i ever get the first ascent i will grade it 9A! Just because of guys like you regan....
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-02-02 09:13:21    
So the world class boulderer GuiGui says, "I  think a possible 8B sit start into an 8C, could be 9A?" (with a question mark)

Then Reagan who has bouldered up to 7B+ says, "An 8B into an 8C can't be 9A. It is 8C+ Maximum."

You might be correct but it would be much nicer if you also could use the word
"think".

Grade calculation might give an indication but it all depends on the the size of the linking hold. In the case of The Big Island, the start moves much be super hard as Graham originally skipped them when he opend The Island. If it is a big rest in between an 8B into an 8C it can of course not be 8C+. It is also hard to understand what you say based on thiis, "8B into 8B/8B+ = Hard 8C". I mean, if the Dagger was 8B+, the story should have been a soft 8C+ or what do you mean?

Further more, I think GuiGui wrote it like that to first of all give credit to Jan which I think was very nice.
OnLine Alex Barrows
  2013-02-02 10:15:55    
Do it and give it 9A+ Jan, that'll really get the idiots wound up.
OnLine Christoph Barthel
  2013-02-02 10:39:46    
 :D
good answer Jan :)

@ Derek: I know, I just wanted to make my point clear. I was just curious to know whether Jan spends 8 hours a week on the wall or in the gym - which is quite a difference to me.
Eventhough I am pretty sure that when he is in the gym he`s not just playing around ......
OffLine finbarrr
  2013-02-02 11:02:33    
hahaha, indeed, good answer Jan!
it's amazing what some people will type out loud
OffLine Christian Stohr
  2013-02-02 11:09:14    
Why do people always get personal and look up scorecards to check if other's statements are justified by that? How ridiculous and childish is this?
Regan made his statement based on thoughts from Paul Robinson who I think has climbed more "cutting edge" boulders than anyone around here. 
That only the FA and repeaters can give a correct grade suggestion/opinion should be clear, so why even bother.

Good luck Jan on trying it, would be amazing to see another German climb the first of the magical 9a/9A grade :)
OffLine Alex G
  2013-02-02 11:14:56    
He said: "a possible 8B sit into an 8C, could be an 9A?" He is merely speculating, the word "possible" and the questionmark may give you a hint...

So why the fuss?
OffLine somebody
  2013-02-02 11:44:44    
I don't really believe in this grading-math being so absolute... Maybe it works for some boulders/routes, but I don't think you can apply it to every single boulder/route!!
It depends on if the combined lines are short/long, technical/powerful, on the linking section...
As long as you haven't climbed the linked problem you can't say an absolute grade of it, just by reading the grade of each component, without leaving any question mark - No matter how much experience you have, you just can make a guess!

And if guigui, who actually climbed one of the parts, says it could possibly be a 9A (also just a guess) it's still a grading I would consider much more accurate then anything some internetpeople claim to know through their gradingmath...
OffLine Atious
  2013-02-02 12:11:15    
Niklas ; Wise words.
OffLine tomas beena
  2013-02-02 15:14:12    
from pauls blog:

"derailed 8b+ (8B) 7/13/10- This one is like 8a+ to 8a and definitely should fit into the 8b category. for a while i was unsure what to think of boulders that were 8a+ to 8a. There are quite a lot of them and where do you stick them. I feel that they can go either way depending on how hard the 8a+ and 8a are. both of these would be soft for the grade so 8b seems more appropriate of a grade for this one."

i actually had to laugh a little bit, when i read this. what sense does it even make? if you try to break down a problem and "mathematically" come to a grade...you're facing the problem of grading not one, but TWO or more problems, deoending on the number of sections that are added together. now...in my experience...the shorter the climb, the harder it is to give an accurate grade...so i find the whole idea doesn't make sense.
OffLine Ethan Yackulic
  2013-02-02 17:52:39    
Jan is the man! rate it whatever you like and let the mortal internet trolls argue all they want about the grade because, lets face it, none of them (us) can touch this thing!! 
OffLine jarvoramas
  2013-02-03 13:32:53    
I use the method mentioned by Regan when i try to grade my boulders , to
me it makes sense and i find it gives me something to start with to
calculate and describe my " feeling " otherwise for me , if there is no
method or break down then it all just becomes one great big wash . And
of course everyone/anyone can and will grade things whatever they want , but it's
surely nice having some sort of method right ?

I'm still pretty
new to climbing ( 2yr's ) so i don't have a ton of experience and i
definitely don't climb V15-17 ... So without some sort of system i would
be completely lost when climbing harder than my current comfort zone
... I have only climbed one V9 , and for interest sake the breakdown of
the V9 is - a known and " solid " V8 with a nice transition into the
meat/crux of a V7 . So without the given or some method i would have had
no idea what to suggest as it's the hardest thing i have done , and
that's exactly what i thought at the time " I'm awesome , and that's the
hardest thing i have done " unfortunately i didn't just finish the
climb and have the right/wrong number come to me ... I like having some
sort of perspective for grading , but then i am getting older ...


Thought i would share =) peace , be sound and be nice .
OffLine Regan McCaffery
  2013-02-03 22:08:40    
I meant no disrespect to you Jan. It was an awesome send. Good stuff.
OffLine Regan McCaffery
  2013-02-03 22:35:45    
For others who don't understand.

Look at just about any hard boulder problem where the acentionist has described the problem. They will usually break the problem down into sections of smaller boulder problems or moves in their description. Add those sections up in the method described by Paul Robinson (with the described allowances) and you will arrive at the same grade they gave the problem.

Try it with your own problems. Of course it is not exact and is fallible but it provides a good 'starting point' for deciding how hard to grade something. It also makes it clear when you are way out, and gives you a range from where you can select the grade. For example no matter how hard it 'feels' to you, a 7A into a 7B cannot ever be 7C+.   So it's a good check.

Ok, lets get back to Jan's awesome send.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2013-02-04 13:54:41    
Haha. Nerds.
OffLine Bartholomäus Schaumschläger
  2013-02-04 14:55:05    
I would like to use this very moment to propose the use of a new word.
The word 'hojer' could be used to describe one person           
doing a rediculously hard task with total ease.

Dude1: Did u see Jan climbing Off the wagon?
Dude2: Yes he totally hojered that one.

Dude cheering: Come on! just hojer it!

Dude asking: U think you are able to hojer El Corazon?

Jan: I just hojered The big island.

OffLine Daniel Bähring
  2013-02-04 16:40:38    
@Bartholomäus
Haha, that's brilliant!!

To all the grade nerds: There is actually an equation to answer all your questions ;-)
OffLine jarvoramas
  2013-02-04 23:53:06    
Hi Daniel , yip that is the equation i use .

Proud to be nerdy .
OffLine User Deactivated
  2013-02-05 15:51:20    
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=S5yRB0-GzFw

Video from german bouldercup on ispo tradefair - with jan hojer ;)
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-02-05 16:18:00