13 May 2010

8C (+) by Dai Koyamada

Dai Koyamada reports with picture that he has done the second ascents of The Story of two worlds in Cresciano which Dave Graham put up in 2004 and originally graded 8C but it should be - The world's hardest boulder - contender. "Climbers like Daniel Woods are telling me over and over how this boulder must be the standard for 8C+ and I think it is interesting, as I did grade it a rather bizarre manner." "The boulder is a pure sit start to a chunk of rock Toni Lamprecht climbed and called 'The Dagger'. It starts with 7-Big moves at 8B or 8B+ which is very friction depending and crimpy as hell, directly climbing into an incredibly physical 8B+". Dai Koyamada has previously done some 15 8C boulders and two boulder routes graded 8Cc+, The Wheel of Life and Hydrangea. During 97-00, Dai competed in the WC and his best result was #4.
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