6 May 2010

How do your loose your grip?

Training/Jens: The weakest link for completing a move is, generally, maintaining the crimping angle at the lower hand. The higher you try to lock of with your arm or the faster you push, the more force is loaded onto the chosen crimping angle and eventually the chain will brake. Hopefully you are already grabbing the next hold in control. If not, you will land dynamically and if it is a small hold it is about maintaining the crimping angle again. If it is a large hold, your success depends on your courage to test your open hand friction strength. In most of the cases, you will actually take away the hand as you are afraid of the pain from cutting loose from the friction. As you are working a crux move, you learn to optimize the finger angle and the load you are challenging it with. Often your mind is visualizing sticking the next hold, but instead focusing on locking your gripping angle might do the trick. "I lock my crimper with a key, then I go to the next hold", is a successful concept of Maja Vidmar. The picture tries to explain that we in general use and are stronger in three different finger angle positions.
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