25 October 2009

8a anti-chipping campaign: Attacks from both flanks

Debate/Jens: The opposite flanks being fundamentally negative or pro-chipping have been calling me an "idiot", for the 8a anti-chipping campaign. 8a is the climbing media which most actively work to minimize chipping. You can mark a route as, "Poorly/Mainly Chipped" and this is visible in all scorecards. Chipped ascents are seldom reported, but if, often with a negative comment. Anti-chipping fundamentalist's are often climbers who have never put up routes and they think chipping is very rare. I have opened 250 routes (no chipping) but I guess that 5 - 20 % of the 7a< have been chipped. First Ascentionist's are more opened towards chipping as they now it is impossible to draw a line and some FAs think 100 % are chipped. In some hard core sectors at Railay and in Gorges du Loup this is probably the case. 8a hopes our anti-chipping campaign will minimize future chipping. As our main focus is to influence the guys who are chipping we have said that in 1 % it is a grey area, i.e. "yellow card" but in 99 %, it is an egoistic act showing no respect for the future.
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