9 October 2013

Barbara Zangerl on her Alpine trilogy consecution

BARBARA ZANGERL on her Alpine trilogy consecution

By Esteban Díez Fernández


© Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

Climbing 'Des Kaisers Neue Kleider'.  © Klaus Dell'Orto

© Ignacio Sandoval Burón.


Please, tell us what type of route 'Des Kaisers Neue Kleider' is. Are this route's two 8b+ pitches vertical and technical like in the other two routes?

'Kaisers Neue Kleider' is based in Wilder Kaiser (Fleischbankpfeiler) which was opened by Stefan Glowacz in 1994. 

Compared to 'Silbergeier' and 'End of Silence', 'Kaisers Neue Kleider' is more athletic climbing and less technical. There are only 2 very technical pitches, the first 7c+ and the 6th pitch, the 8a. The other pitches are steep and powerful. Compared to the other trilogy routes, 'Kaisers Neue Kleider' han't got the bolts so distanced. There are only a few longer runouts. For me, 'Kaisers Neue Kleider' felt harder than the other two routes and, in the end, it was a big mental game for me. I needed 7 tries for the 8th pitch.



This time you tried it together with Nina Caprez. What is the feeling of climbing hard this kind of multi-pitch routes together with another female?


No, I didn’t try 'Kaisers' with Nina. We only tryed 'Silbergeier' together and it was a really cool time. It is something special when both are fighting for the same goal, without any competition. Sharing emotions, great moments and pushing each other. 

This time I climbed together with Jacopo Larcher. One week after my ascent, Jacopo also sent 'Kaisers Neue Kleider'. It was an amazing experience with a lot of fun trying this route together. And finally, for the both of us, with a happy end. I really enjoyed this time!!! And maybe we chose the last moment of this year for being able to send the route. Now, we have a big raining period and the route needs some days to dry. In fact, the crux holds in the first 8b+ were often wet.


This last route has a lot of hard pitches, so is it the hardest one of the trilogy for you?


Yes, for me it felt harder than the other two... It's got a more athletic style and I spent more time for this route.



Why did you started thinking on completing this trilogy?

At the beginning I only wanted to try 'Silbergeier'. Then, I got knocked out without completing it because of an injury. The year after I searched for a project with the same style of climbing. That was 'End of Silence'. After a two years break after 'Silbergeier', I was soooo motivated to go back to try a Beat Kammerlander's master piece.....I did it....and finally I wanted to finish the trilogy. But I had a really big respect for 'Kaisers'. At that time I couldn’t imagine to climb 'Kaisers Neue Kleider'.



Now that you're done with it, what's next?

Now....????? I will join the TNF climbing festival in Kalymnos and after that I have planned a US-trip. Red River Gorge and Indian Creek. 


Have you heard about the famous Pico Urriello (Naranjo de Bulnes) in Spain? If so, have you ever thought about climbing it?

It sound interesting... I've never been to there, but I've seen some cool pictures... For sure, one day I will go to visit the Spanish Dolomites. 

© Klaus Dell'Orto.




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