13 December 2011

Niccolò Ceria

The never ending story, 8B+

HOW DID YOU START CLIMBING?
I tried climbing for the first time nine years ago in Val DIsere (France). In the square of this quiet mountain village there was a small climbing structure, free for all. For me it was like a game and I enjoyed my self every time that I climbed there. When I came back to Italy I wanted to continue this activity so I decided to start seriously in a gym close to my home and I have never stopped climbing since then.

In 2005 I did my first comp and in 2008 my bouldering outdoor activity began. In the first years I did many competitions and I climbed a lot in the gym, while in the last period Im climbing more on the rock. Now my training is dedicated to increase my bouldering performance outdoor because for me now it is the best way to represent the climbing.

HOW DOES A NORMAL CLIMBING WEEK LOOK LIKE?
It depends on the week and the period. When I am in a week where I have something to do for the school I have just two session of training, while when Im more free I train 3-4 times. I alternate climbing session in the gym, where I do 2 hours of boulder, with pan gullich and fingerboard session in my home. In the gym I look for inventing some boulders similar to rock boulders with different style of climbing, holds and movements in order to be a bit complete. In fact, many times I create boulder problems with my friends to have a wide gem of quality.

When I am at home I do pan gullich and different exercises at the fingerboard to grow up my pure force. In the weekend I climb on the rock, a lot of areas are near my city. In the radius of 200km there is a big quantity of good rock. I often go to Ticino in Switzerland, where I have a lot of projects to do and I use one or both days in the weekend to try them. Sometime, but rarely, I rest during the week or I do just a soft session on the wall to get ready for the weekend with a good skin and rested muscles but this usually happens when Iam very tired.

WHAT IS YOUR PLAN/HOPE FOR 2012?
For the 2012 season I have not particular plans because Im at the last year of the lyceum and I think that I should dedicate a bit of time at the school during the spring. Beside this, in the first six months I would like to train more times per week and climb in the same spot at the weekend, because I have many boulders that I would like to try. I hope to have a free week in February or march to go to fontainebleau or other destinations so I would be super psyched to have a climbing holiday somewhere.

Probably this year I wont do many competitions and Ill do more rock climbing. In the summer, or autumn I hope to have a trip of three weeks or one month in a cool spot to have bouldering time every day. In the autumn I hope to spend some time in Fontainebleau, to take feeling with the sandstone and climb some gems in the forest.

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