Vertical-Life
Arco Rock Master 1987 - 2010
Arco Rock Master - the evolution into the best of the best by Nicholas Hobley: www.planetmountain.com
15 July - 24 July
In the mid eighties when climbing in Lyrca tights was all the rage, the small town of Arco on the northern tip of Italy's Lake Garda took a conscious decision to become a leading light in the evolution of this embryonic sport. Although it had previously joined forces with Bardonecchia's first-ever competitions, in 1987 Arco felt the time was ripe to invent something completely different. A new competition was needed which could have no equals and which would elevate Arco to legendary status, making it synonymous with the best of the best. In short, the time had come for the Rock Master.
Stefan Glowacz Picture IFSC President Marco Scolaris
More historical pictures and on www.rockmaster.com
The concept was as simple as it was ingenious: invite a handful of the world's most talented climbers on every first weekend of September and watch them battle it out using a unique formula, a total height combination of Saturday's on-sight and Sunday's afterwork routes. And the result was startling: thousands of spectators flocked to Arco, year in year out, to soak in the sun, eat ice cream, meet friends, climb the occasional route and, above all, witness the world's elite explore the very limit of what was and is physically possible.
Unsurprisingly, the list of those who have taken part in this great vertical Wimbledon reads like the Who's Who of sport climbing, with the likes of Isabelle Patissier, Luisa Iovane, Katie Brown, Muriel Sarkany, Stefan Glowacz, François Lombard, Eugeny Ovtchinnikov and Alexandre Chabot battling it out against Lynn Hill and François Legrand who obtained near mythical status thanks to their record-breaking five wins, equalled only by Angela Eiter and Ramòn Julien Puigblanque in 2009.
At times some ingredients were thrown in to add some spice to it all: the competition shifted away from the smooth Colodri rock face onto the artificial Climbing Stadium wall, wildcards were introduced to enable powerful youngsters to emerge, a unique bouldering event flanked the traditional speed competition and the Duel Trophy was implemented to render things even more challenging and exciting. And to cap it all, for the last five years the Arco Rock Legends Award with its international climbing magazine jury has recognised those climbers who play a leading role in the development of this sport.
Thanks to the town of Arco, the Rock Master Association and the army of volunteers the Rock Master competition has matured into an institution, a ritual, a tradition which continues to experiment and evolve. So much so that in 2011, almost a quarter of a century after the first event, Arco will have the honour of hosting the Climbing World Championship. No longer 50 athletes, but 500... but with all of Arco's tried -and-tested experience one thing is certain: it'll be one heck of an event!