Vertical-Life
16 August 2010
Ondra the globetrotter
Adam Ondra - The Globetrotter
Some two weeks ago Adam Ondra won the last event in the Boulder World Cup in Germany in a rather superior style which secured his overall victory 2010. Directely afterwards he went for a road trip in France doing 21 routes 8a+ onsight or harder. Before he went to China and Korea for the Lead WC he had time to answer some short questions?
In 2009, he made at least 30 international trips visiting 11 countries only for climbing and this year he has already done 16 trips so besides being the best rock climber out there he just might be the one travelling the most as well.
Did you do any special preparations for the final WC Bouldering?
I have been training since the end of June only lead except some bouldering in Zillertal and two training days in Munich. Despite this, I still felt like I was stronger in bouldering than with rope... Surprisingly I hadn't lost anything from my power and felt the same as in June, when I trained quite a lot.
What was your feelings before the last four final problems?
I was quite nervous in qualifications and semifinals, but after I saw how well I climbed in semifinal I was quite calm and motivated at the same time to give my best in the final. And that's what I did.
Which are the best crags in France?
From what I visited on this trip I was pretty amazed by La Balme - many good routes from 7c to 8b in slightly overhanging wall and incredible cave on the right side of the cliff with potential of a few extensions of incredible difficulty. Otherwise I like Gorges du Tarn or St. Leger.
What are your strong and weak points?
I consider myself to be universal climber, but I think I am the best in slightly overhanging wall on crimps, dropping my knees. Weakness? Long routes without rests (= wall in Arco, however some can rest there...) and awkward dynos.
What are your next plan?
Now I am going to Asia for two stages of Lead World Cup and then I must get back to Ceuse for some unfinished business.
| Picture by Vojtech Vrzba - Climb4fun |
In 2009, he made at least 30 international trips visiting 11 countries only for climbing and this year he has already done 16 trips so besides being the best rock climber out there he just might be the one travelling the most as well.
Did you do any special preparations for the final WC Bouldering?
I have been training since the end of June only lead except some bouldering in Zillertal and two training days in Munich. Despite this, I still felt like I was stronger in bouldering than with rope... Surprisingly I hadn't lost anything from my power and felt the same as in June, when I trained quite a lot.
What was your feelings before the last four final problems?
I was quite nervous in qualifications and semifinals, but after I saw how well I climbed in semifinal I was quite calm and motivated at the same time to give my best in the final. And that's what I did.
Which are the best crags in France?
From what I visited on this trip I was pretty amazed by La Balme - many good routes from 7c to 8b in slightly overhanging wall and incredible cave on the right side of the cliff with potential of a few extensions of incredible difficulty. Otherwise I like Gorges du Tarn or St. Leger.
What are your strong and weak points?
I consider myself to be universal climber, but I think I am the best in slightly overhanging wall on crimps, dropping my knees. Weakness? Long routes without rests (= wall in Arco, however some can rest there...) and awkward dynos.
What are your next plan?
Now I am going to Asia for two stages of Lead World Cup and then I must get back to Ceuse for some unfinished business.
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