23 April 2010

Gabi Moroni - Action Directe

GABRIELE MORONI about Action Directe

By Ignacio Sandoval Burón

Pic: Bernardo Giménez

Pic: Bernardo Giménez.

- Tell us what is your whole story on this route.

I tried Action Directe for the first time in 2006 but I couldnt do any of the moves on the route. After 2 years I decided to see if I had a chance but after 2 good days on the route I got a small finger injury... I came back a few months later after a good training period and a good recover. I was feeling so strong on the route that I thought I could do it... but nothing... during that autumn, I had 3 small trips to Germany but no one of them was successful. Last year I didnt try AD a lot due to other obligations... just one weekend in may and a few days in October but all these days with very bad conditions...

This year was different I left for the frankenjura with a lot of chance. i was in the best shape of my life both mentally and physically and after only two days back on the route (first day on it I couldnt give a real attempt due to a wet hold) I climbed it for the 12th ascent!!...

- What was the version you climbed it? (Wolfgang used a 16 moves sequence whereas others like Dai Koyamada did it with a 11 moves sequence)

I dont know which is my version but I think I climbed it close to Güllich's way in about 16 moves...

- What was the harder thing for you? Was it any specific sequence, a movement, the resistance?

The hardest thing for me was to link the upper part. I could do easily the first jump move since the beginning but I had some problems to stick the mono after the pinch on the redpoint. This move is not so hard but very weird. And of course, the other hard thing was to link the final moves, especially the long reach from the bad 2 fingers pocket to the good 3 fingers edge...

- Did you specifically train for this route? If so, what was it?

I didnt train specifically for the route, I only did some training at the campus board to get the tendons fit enough before leaving to Frankenjura. I have always been strong on this style so, I didnt need lots of training!

- Being this your dream and having accomplished it already, do you still have any more? What is next?

I still dont know what's next. Now, the World Cup season is almost starting so I will focus on that. Anyway Im sure it will be so difficult to find a project such as AD... Of course, I can try some other 9a's or harder but nothing is compared to AD. I'd like to find something different but I still have no clue!