9 December 2009

Relay: Parry to Abramchuk

Relay interview by Garreth Parry, who now lives in Costa Blanca where he runs a holiday company including accomodations etc, and Yulia Abramchuk, Boulder World Champion in 2009. The relay started with Martina Cufar  in 2005 - Natalija Gros - David Graham - Joe Kinder - Paul Robinson - Michele Caminati - Nalle Hukkataival

All Pictures by Anna Piunova
Ok lets start with the booring questions!

How old are you?

 I am 27

Where do you live?

In Moscow, but my native city is St-Petersburg

Who do you live with, other climbers, partner or just friends?

I live with my good friend, a climber too. He helps me to dirty the plates and pays a half the rent of our apartment. In Moscow to rent is really expensive. L

Have you ever thought of moving to a more central European country?

Yes, of course, I think about it every time when I am in Europe. I would like to buy a house somewhere near Fontainebleau J or in Spain.

What is your job?

I teach climbing a little, but just a little, because I can’t train for myself after. The students take away all my energy, I do it only in winter, when I am in .  This is not my calling, but sometimes I need to do it to pay rent, eat, and at any time be able to go where I want.

When did you start climbing?

I started at 10. 

Why?

My school started a climbing club. And for some reason I always wanted to try everything that was new, so I decided to go there. It turned out very interesting. Unfortunately, in Russia there are not so many rocks, and to get to them is not easy and very often cold. We were only taken out on the rocks in the May holidays and summer.

Do you climb full time?

No

Where do you train?

 I train in two climbing gyms. One – a boulder hall, the other – a high climbing wall height 12m, where the World Cup was held in 2005, if you remember. In Moscow there are many climbing walls or gyms, I do not know the exact number, perhaps several dozen.

What is your training secret or tip for other aspiring competitors?

I have no secretsJ The main thing is to climb for the fun. And if your body tells you “I don’t want, lets stop”, listen to it and stop for that moment, go to the sun, or stay at home, or drink something with friendsJ. 

Where is you favorite climbing destination for rock?

Well I have not yet visited all the climbing areas of the world, so my priorities may change. I love , I like Rodellar, and the rocks around L’Argentiere la Besse. The main thing is that to go to them is not more than 20 minutes by footJ.

Where is your favorite climbing destination for competition?

France. I like the atmosphere at their competitions always an emotional audience and DJ Kristof.

Last year you won the World Championships. Was this a shock for you?

I was surprised.  I didn’t climb two weeks before the comps and I hated climbing. I was afraid to fly to China on the planeL. Of course, I was happy to winJ Actually, I didn’t really like the World championships.

Is there an event you have not won but would like to?

World Cup J

What is your greatest achievement?

Sometimes a great achievement is to just rise at 5 am after a sleepless night or to be able to put your young brother to bed.  I don’t knowJ

What’s your plans for 2010 on rock?

I never build plans.  But, I would like to go to Fontainbleau, Magic Wood, Chironico, and also to climb somewhere with the rope.

What’s your plans for competition?

I’de like to participate in almost all boulder World Cups. I am not sure about Vail in the USA. All Russians, as usual, need to have visas, and it is too much visas for me: all time heaps of documents, money for visa, write to the Consulate, wait for the invitation a week before the competitions, all to be nervous. L

Do you want to go to the Olympics?

No! Climbing is too beautiful for the money, which is promised by the Olympics. The politics, that there is where money is dirty.

Ok some more fun questions.

Meat or Veg?

Veg. I am always full of pitty for animals.

Wine, beer or Spirits?

Wine, beer and Spirits! J

Dance or watch?

Why to watch, If not to dance?

Party or go to bed early?

Party but then it depends who is in the nice bed.

Boyfriend or Girlfriend?

Boyfriend

Campus or Climbing?

Climbing

Rock or Plastic (climbing wall)?

Rock

Russian or English?

So, on the sign of the zodiac I am scales, I always have a difficulty with the choice.

French or Italian?

Italian. Here it’s easy

G String or Boxers?

Boxers. It’s too cold in winter in Russia

Dog or Cat?

Fish

Tell me something amazing?

Only at the our meetingJ

Do you have a nickname? If yes, why?

Some friends call me Zhuzha, it’s just a variant of name Julia. A friend named me so everyone repeats, and now it gets used a lot.

My sponsors

RedFox

La Sportiva

Alpine Aquipment

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