Jenny Lavarda 8c+ Multo Pitch

Jenny Lavarda: The best female rock climber in the world - counting all the disciplines

The crux at the 4th 8c+ pitch is a 2 hands of dyno!

The two first pitches of 35 metres had only 4 bolts each.

Marco Ronchi, boyfreind of Jenny.

1999: First 8a, Supergrime age 15.
2001: Youth World Champion, #5 World Champion being 17 years old
2004: #2 two times in the Bouldering World Cup
2005: Combined World Champion
2008: Ice World Champion
2009: 8c+ Multi Pitch, Solo per vecchi guerrieri, 8a+ onsight Fracca Fracca

Hi Jens, I am Jenny here. Listen Monday 5th October I did the first women ascent of the hardest route in the mountain. I did the Manolo's famous hard route. I did "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" 8c+/9a in Vette Feltrine in mountain. It's a multipitch with four pitches (7c, 7b+, 8b and 8c+/9a). So I think I am the first woman in the world that I had the hardest route in the mountain. Also my boyfriend Marco Ronchi did the route the same day like me. Monday was a perfect day...good conditions, right temperature...an incredible day...after 2 "work" months, we did this incredible route. So I have also many photos, if you send me your mail I send to you also some photos. I wait a your mail. Have a nice day Jenny

I don't know why the degree isn't 8c+...maybe because some movements are more then 8c+...above all in the higher part of the multipitch...some movements are very hard....like a bouldering...8A bloc for sure...maybe for this reason. I tried this route about 2 months, one day climbing and one day rest because to go at the begging of the route me and Marco we have to walk about 1H30"/2H...in upgrade...uff...it was always harder day by day...my legs were still finished...above all the first days was hard because we had heavy bags...with rope, quickdraws, and many other things...also because the route is at 2000 metres...so some days was very cold...

I tried also this route 3 years ago with Mauro Bubu Bole for one month, and I loved it until the first moment...for the rock, the place...the best route in my life...I didn't count attempts because the first time was hard to understand something...vertical route with very small holds...when I climbed in this multipitch my first time with Bubu I thought...I never do this route, it's impossible for me...but then I found my solution and finally I do it...I studied many days the route...maybe the route that I studied more in my life...movements for movements...foot for foot...uff... My boyfriend did the route the same day after me...

Me I did the route in the morning, also because the multipitch is only 4 pitch and I climb very fast above all the first two pitches, then the 8b I knew well...the crux for me was always the jump at two end in the middle of the last pitch...and when Monday I did it I couldn't fall in the last part of the route...for me was very hard to do the jump with two end...and I couldn't do mistake in the last part. I fell many times in the jump to try the right solutions for the foot. Marco did the route in the afternoon, after that I have done my performance...we came down with the rope along the route and Marco began to climb...and the day was perfect...good conditions, not so much cold and not so much hot...the right conditions...and good for the skin...not so much hot...good adherence...so my boyfriend was so happy for me and with right energy because me I have done my jump with two hands, that also he did the route...it was a perfect day...and then we came down until the car, and we went to

celebrate...also with my family!!! It was a magic day...an history that I think it's not to possible to immagine...me and you in the same day...perfect day...we didn't think to do the multipitch in the same day...incredible...above all for me...I couldn't immagine...

Hard for my mind above all the first two pitches because in 35 metres there were only 4 quickdraws...hard for my mind. For me it was hard route, today I was climbing in a crag and I did an 8b, that I had already done, and it was so easy for me today...I think the route it's very hard, also because the hardest pitch is the last and you arrive there very tired above all with fingers...so I think it's a very hard multi-pitch because 8b and then 8c+/9a as last pitch...uff...for me it was hard also because in the last pitch there was the jump at two hands...uff...